I am making a bridal dress with an empire seam, not a waistline seam; however, the dress has a very long cathedral train (bridal stores call it a “grand cathedral” train). The dress has princess lines, front and back, and center back and side seams. Because of the limited number of seams, and the long train, the bustling technique is the style in which the dress is bustled underneath – using straps underneath the dress and tying them together to create the bustle.
Due to the shape of the dress, the bustle is only achieved by tying it along the center back seam. It hikes up too much of the hem if I go to the princess back seams. Therefore, my question is: Should I create a waistline stay and hang the bustle straps from the stay at the center back seam? Should I attach the stay at the natural waist on the right side of the lining seams, or should I attach the stay at the empire seam at the seams?
Does anyone have any suggestions?