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Machine Embroidery: A Marriage of Fabric and Design

comments (1) November 1st, 2008 in tools & supplies, embroidery

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Threads Magazine, editor

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Small designs scattered over a garment can maximize the embroidered effect. These shapes are from the Dot Font design card by Cactus Punch.

Small designs scattered over a garment can maximize the embroidered effect. These shapes are from the Dot Font design card by Cactus Punch.

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Consider the fabric's weight and weave
It's important to understand that not every design should be used on every type of fabric, even with the proper stabilizer (see Are your fabric and design compatible?). A densely stitched design, for example, can put stress on certain fabrics, such as knits and lightweight, loosely woven fabrics, in some cases causing the weave to pull apart. Dense designs may simply be too stiff for a fluid fabric, but can be used successfully on stable, medium- to heavyweight woven fabrics.


The threads of coarsely woven fabrics can deflect the machine needle while stitching, producing uneven edges.		The same design stitches out cleanly on a more smoothly woven fabric.

A small, less densely stitched design may be wrong for a thick pile fabric, such as fleece or terry cloth, because its coverage may be inadequate, causing the design to be lost. This type of design works best on a smooth-surface, plain-weave fabric. And a design with substantial underlay stitches might be a plus on a deep pile fabric to keep the pile from poking through the stitches. Conversely, it may be too dense for a soft knit or drapey woven.

In addition to the fabric's weight and weave, consider the fabric's color and how you plan to use the fabric. Bold colors or patterns will probably obscure pastel embroidery, and a large, dense floral design on silk velvet, for instance, may work beautifully for a pillow cover but be awkwardly stiff on a long, fluid skirt. In some cases, you can alter the design to make it work; sometimes the best alternative is to choose a different design.