Get Threads magazine!

Give a Gift

To Get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice

Fitting an armhole requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams.
Same measurements on very different figures
Glossary of terms
Fitting an armhole requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams.

Fitting an armhole requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams.

There's more to fitting an armhole, also known as an armscye, than you may think-it requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams. And the only way I know to successfully fit an armhole is to use a muslin. For more information on armhole fittings be sure to pick up Threads #117, and don't miss other techniques like this one by ordering a print subscription which comes with FREE access to our tablet editions.

People with identical bust and over-bust measurements often fit into the same size and style pattern differently (see Same measurements, very different figures). The shape of your body depends on where you carry your flesh and dictates the shape of an armhole. A muslin is the testing ground-it's the perfect place to sort out fit issues.

Same measurements, very different figures

Same measurements, very different figures

A muslin is a test garment in inexpensive fabric, initially sewn without facings or edge finishes. You pin-fit the muslin right on the body. The object is to make the fabric skim the body with no signs of wrinkles or strain lines. Although becoming a fitting expert can take years of practice, I'm going to give you a straightforward method of how to fit an armhole and develop a well-fitting bodice muslin that accurately reflects the shape of the body.

Follow this order when fitting: bust, back, underarm, shoulder seam placement and slope, shoulder point to underarm, and side seams. Then adjust the pattern tissue using the fitted muslin as your guide. Such a completed pattern can be used as a reference to position darts and establish the armhole shape in future patterns. You'll end up with a perfect pattern for a closely-fitting bodice with or without set-in fitted sleeves. Just because fitting can be complicated, don't let it scare you away.

Glossary of terms

Glossary of terms
Use this glossary to help navigate your pattern and understand the fitting process and the terms used in this article. Key landmarks are identified on these pattern pieces. The dotted lines indicate possible fitting sites.

You'll need a person, a pattern, and some woven fabric

Too-small pattern
  Don't try to fit a too-small pattern. A strain between bust points means you need a larger pattern. See Choose the Correct Pattern Size.

Select a fitted blouse pattern intended for woven fabrics that includes bust darts in the side seam or armscye. (See above Glossary of terms for an overview of the pattern areas that will be need adjustment.) Make sure the finished bust measurement printed on the pattern is between 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 inches greater than your actual full bust measurement to allow enough wearing ease (wearing ease is the difference between your body's measurements and the finished garment's measurements, which is necessary so you can move in the garment). Use a stable woven fabric without spandex, and follow the pattern to make your sleeveless, collarless muslin. Sew your seams using a long machine stitch, and use a thread color that contrasts with the muslin fabric so that you can easily see to clip and release seams during fitting .

You'll need an assistant for the fitting process. Consider hiring a dressmaker to help you. Plan on making several muslins to get the right fit; the results are well worth the effort. If you've never made a one, watch this video to learn how to make and and use a muslin.

A muslin tells you more than your measurements alone do
The first muslin serves as the rough draft for blocking out the major fitting changes. I always make at least one additional muslin to check my first fitting results. If you're a beginner, it's better to make more muslins with fewer changes to each than to try too many changes at once.

Don't try fitting a muslin that's a size too small because the tightness distorts the overall fit. For example, if you get a strain line between the bust points (drawing above right), start over using a larger size pattern.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 > View all

Comments (11)

sonut sonut writes: If the armscye is altered, then does the sleeve also need to be altered, and how does one know what changes to make in the sleeve?
Posted: 11:34 pm on February 9th

chloelouise chloelouise writes: love this post....I keep trying to perfect my shirts. I finally got one just right and it does have a very high underarm seam and the sleeves fit correctly to the bodice to allow easy movement yet it is not too loose.....I worked so hard to achieve this and it is actually very comfortable. A well fitted 100% cotton shirt of a finer fabric---this was about 8 dollars a yard but it is a very nice cotton shirting fabric and more and more difficult to find---it is actually more comfortable and cooler than a tee-shirt or knit shirt or a man-made blend. I also try to make it from the center out because if you think about it, unless you have unusually shaped shoulders or neck and the front is straight the only place you are going to get fabric is from the sides if you do not have a princess seam. I try to get the armhole high and correct as to move my arm forward without pinching and then just keep bringing in fabric from the side as fact, it is not necessary to finish the side seams (flat fell, or whatever) until it has been washed a few times. Then the front will hang straight and not gap open and and necessary adjustment can come from the sides....actually I just read this in a shirt book and I think it was from Threads. Well, just saying this technique has worked well for me but it has taken some time......what do you
Posted: 6:08 pm on October 3rd

EvamarieGomez EvamarieGomez writes: user-3925252: You can click individual page numbers, the "next" button, or the "view all" option.

Evamarie Gomez
Web Producer
Posted: 9:11 am on October 3rd

user-3925252 user-3925252 writes: Where is the rest of the article?
Posted: 12:51 pm on October 1st

Hellecoox Hellecoox writes: I am a confused and oncerned about this advice: "Don't try to fit a too-small pattern. A strain between bust points means you need a larger pattern."
The way I read this, I disagree. You may NOT need a "larger pattern" as in a size up, but you could use an Full Bust Adjustment.

If the shoulders fit well, and everything fits except the bust strains, then you need only increase the bust area. Which does take some finessing and trial and error, also truing of the armscye afterwards.

I have finally learned this, having been frustrated with fit for years using larger patterns instead of making larger only where I needed it.

Now, if by "larger pattern" you mean making a pattern larger where needed (not another size), well then I agree.

Still lots of great info here, though. Thanks.
Posted: 10:53 pm on September 23rd

BoldlySewing BoldlySewing writes: Armholes are my nemesis. Thanks for a great article! I'll keep trying!
Posted: 9:01 pm on September 30th

maredi maredi writes: nice.... solo me gustaria en español

Posted: 1:40 pm on September 6th

SewKnitStash SewKnitStash writes: "The correct bust dart also keeps the armhole from gaping."
" pinching out a dart in the armscye to eliminate the gape and then moving the dart to a better location later is a good approach."

My shirt gapes above the full bust. Pinching out an extra dart there at the armscythe would close the gap, but I imagine it would like strange. Is that "done"? Advice?

Thanks in advance!
Posted: 7:55 pm on August 14th

rwito rwito writes: hi rose
i am working on the bunka sloper.would you like to discuss it ?
Posted: 9:04 pm on October 26th

jcorte jcorte writes: I know that his works for the armhole, but my problem is with a jacket that fits too tightly to raise my arm and write on the blackboard. Any suggestions? Adding to the center back does not help and makes the jacket look sloppy.
Posted: 7:35 pm on August 28th

RoseM RoseM writes: I know this is the way to fit the "standard" armhole. Has anyone designed an armhole pattern for the Bunka model? It is more "lifelike" in my opinion.
Perhaps this (the Bunka form) could be a future Threads article???
Posted: 6:55 am on December 3rd

Log in or create a free account to post a comment.