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Fit & Sew Tops

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Fitting a Bust

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Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King briefly discusses the role of the moulage in fitting, and that includes the bust area. Kenneth has written a book about this tool. The moulage, he explains, is the foundation of the pattern-drafting system. It requires taking 23 body measurements, calculating circumferences, and turning those into a pattern that has no wearing ease. The moulage can be used to make a dress form.

Once the dress form is created, you would create a sloper that has wearing ease in the bust area, waist, hip, and armholes. The sloper fits over the moulage or dress form.

Store-bought foam dress forms can be padded to accurately reflect the moulage, or you can create your own dress form with duct tape and expanding foam, Kenneth explains.

 

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Next: Adjusting the Bodice Front
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Basic Torso Adjustments
Bust Fitting
Sleeves and Shoulders
Construction Secrets: Collars, Yokes, Cuffs, Vents, Plackets
Make It Your Own