You may have purchased shirts that fit properly but still gap at the bustline. Even oversized garments can gap if the buttons are in the wrong place.
When making a garment, don’t make any markings for button or buttonholes until the garment is almost completed. In most of my ‘Cutting Line Design’ patterns, I don’t even indicate buttonhole placement, with a few exceptions dictated by construction. Make sure you have on the proper under garments you plan to wear and slip in shoulder pads if they are going to be worn when the garment is completed.
While standing in front of a mirror, slip the almost completed garment on and look carefully at where the apex of your bustline is located. The apex is the fullest pint of the bust. Place a pin at this point on the garment.
Lay the garment on a flat surface, and measure from…
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