Add a Yoke for Fit
Redesign a shirt back for shape and style
The relationship between fitting and garment seamlines fascinates me. Having a seam go over an area where fitting issues occur—for example, a princess seam at the bust—enables me to fine-tune the fit more precisely and easily than with a dart. Plus, the line created by the seam can visually enhance the body’s proportions. This principle can be used throughout a garment. You can design a back yoke on shirts, blouses, dresses, and jackets in a way that’s analogous to a princess seam at the bust: The yoke seam provides contouring for the shoulder blades and upper back. It improves the garment’s fit and overall style. In fact, I often add seamlines to patterns knowing that the additional seam will probably be viewed as a stylistic element, while I secretly know it’s what helps me get an exceptionally good fit. And garments that fit well are more comfortable to wear.
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