Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Threads Project Guides

Fit & Sew Tops

Guide Home
Chapter
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Add a Yoke for Fit and Overall Style

Redesign a shirt back for shape and style
Threads #206 - Dec. 2019/Jan. 2020

The relationship between fitting and garment seamlines fascinates me. Having a seam go over an area where fitting issues occur—for example, a princess seam at the bust—enables me to fine-tune the fit more precisely and easily than with a dart. Plus, the line created by the seam can visually enhance the body’s proportions. This principle can be used throughout a garment. You can design a back yoke on shirts, blouses, dresses, and jackets in a way that’s analogous to a princess seam at the bust: The yoke seam provides contouring for the shoulder blades and upper back. It improves the garment’s fit and overall style.

In fact, I often add seamlines to patterns knowing that the additional seam will probably be viewed as a stylistic element, while I secretly know it’s what helps me get an exceptionally good fit. And garments that fit well are more comfortable to wear.

I’m excited to share the basic concept of fitting the upper back and shoulder, and show you how to shape with a yoke seamline instead of darts. You can do some draping on the body, for a personalized fit, and then use patternmaking skills to create custom yoke designs. Armed with this information, you can have fun adapting a yoke to your figure and personality.

Women in a beautiful pink shirt
A shaped seam gives subtle dimension to a shirt back, for an improved fit and individual style.

The role of neck and shoulder darts

The back neck and shoulder area isn’t a flat plane, so for a smooth fit, shirts, blouses, and dresses call for a shaping feature.

Shoulders need shaping

If you put the palm of your hand on your shoulder, you’ll feel that the back extends out before dropping over the shoulder blades and down the…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial
Previous: How to Edgestitch and Topstitch a Collar Lapel Next: The Magic Yoke: Constructing a Fast Finished Yoke
Discuss

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Fit & Sew Tops

Fit & Sew Tops

Sew beautiful tops with tips from the experts

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Fit & Sew Tops Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Basic Torso Adjustments
Bust Fitting
Sleeves and Shoulders
Construction Secrets: Collars, Yokes, Cuffs, Vents, Plackets
Make It Your Own