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1ssue 128 short cuts to designer jacket

SewMadSue | Posted in Feedback on Threads on

In the current edition, issue no.128 newly arrived this weekend I was very taken with the article on “short cuts to a designer jacket” and am contemplating making up some boucle fabric already purchased for a similarly styled jacket in this way as per the article:


Can anyone advise/offer opinion on whether the boucle fabric has been “interfaced” in anyway?
From the description and the picture where the lining is flipped back to reveal the fashion fabric, it suggests not.
I am wary of making up a jacket without interfacing.

I wondered if in someway the bagging and treating as ONE and the subsequent quilting made it not necessary TO interface in the traditional way? or whether it IS indeed interfaced but not terribly well noted?



  1. woodruff | | #1

    I think that was the great idea behind Chanel's little jackets, and the reason for their popularity--to make wool jackets as light, unstructured, and flexible as sweaters, so, no interfacing.

    If you search the Threads titles or subjects using "Chanel," I think you will find two earlier and longer articles (one from years and years ago), showing her technique in great detail, and there's no tailoring or stiffening anywhere.

    1. SewMadSue | | #2

      Thanks for the confirmation! I was not confident enough to "assume" I was right in my thinking, I will give it a go and see what the results are!

      1. HeartFire2 | | #3

        The whole point of quilting the charmuse lining fabric to the boucle is to provide stability to the loose weave and keep it from stretching. I have not see the article yet as I have canceled my subscription to threads and only look at it in the book store now.But to answer your question, in a Chanel style jacket there is no interfacing whatsoever.

        1. SewMadSue | | #4

          Thanks for the confirmation, also.
          I can sort of see that the quilting to the lining fabric will stabilise the garment which is styled as a light or soft weight.
          I didn't want to go ahead and assume and then feel silly at NOT doing something like interfacing had it been sew!I am newly subscribed to Threads and enjoy each issue, this one in particular has a couple of articles of interest for me.
          Happy sewing.

          1. LindaG | | #5

            Hi,I just finished a version of this jacket. The quilting allows the boucle to stay soft and drapey. I didn't have time to do the embellishment described in the article. Instead, I made a pair of ribbon-shaped ties to close the front -- the ties were long enough to make soft bows, which added a little dressiness to the jacket. To make the ties, I used the silk charmeuse from the lining (and the matching blouse). One hint: Before stiching in the ditch and again before quilting, pin the two layers together all over. Even with the IDT on a Pfaff, the lining often fed through at a different speed.I'd definitely use this technique again -- it's a fun change from all the interfacing and shaping of a conventional jacket.Good luck with your project!Linda

          2. SewMadSue | | #6

            thank you Linda, I will make sure I pin and attach my walking foot! would you use this method again? I will let you know how I get on with my version too!

  2. mjjudas | | #7

    Hi All: 

    Regarding article in issue 128 "Shortcuts to Designer Jackets":

    I have an additional question on the article.  It has to do w/ sewing the sleeve, specifically the hem.  It states to "sew the shell and lining wrong sides together, turn right side out and press...".   It is refering to the hem I believe.  Is this a mistake? 

    It seems like you would want to sew the hem w/ right sides together assuming the sleeves for the shell and lining are the same length.  That way the lining comes to the lower inside edge of the sleeve and the seam allowance is inside when you turn it right sides out (and THEN the wrong sides are together).  Am I missing something here? 

    I've read and re-read this and the only way it would work sewing the sleeve hem by machine with the wrong sides together is if you first fold up the hems of the shell and lining and try to sew the hem catching the shell close to the top of  the hem allowance and the lining close to it's folded edge.  Assuming you don't fall off either way, this would be quicker but I think accuracy will be tough.

    What do   you think?  Or should I send the editors/auther a note for clarification?  Thanks much!


    Edited 12/12/2006 3:54 pm ET by mjjudas

    1. mem | | #8

      I think that the shell is the length of the sleeve plus the hem allowance and the seam allowance and the lining is the length of the sleeve MINUS the hem allowance but plus the seam allowance . This means that when you turn right sides up and pull the two sleeve heads to match each other the hem will just be there . In a Chanel style jacket I have made the "long way" the shell and lining are the same length and the edges turned under and slip stitched togther.

      1. mjjudas | | #9

        Mem:  Ah I think I see.  I was wondering about the Chanel "long way".  I guess it would depend too on the pattern being used.  I will proceed based on your math - it looks like it would work just fine.

        Thanks so much!  MJ

    2. User avater
      Becky-book | | #10

      Must be a 'typo'    if you are going to 'turn it right-side-out' it would have had to be 'right-side-in'  or right sides together when sewn;  regardless of the length difference between lining and shell.


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