Adding Ease to a Raglan Pattern
After much fussing and trialing , I have finially come up with a great fitting t-shirt block (sloper??). My next project is to use it to draft a cardigan and then a jacket so I need to add in some ease. Problem is it is a raglan sleeve t-shirt. I’ve worked with a set in sleeve t-shirt block before and successfully added ease etc but I’m not 100% sure on how I’m going to tackle the raglan. Would love to hear from someone who has!
Jackets and cardigans are meant to fit easily over garments under them. I've sometimes made jackets by going to the next size or two up in a multi-size pattern. If you don't have a multi- pattern, decide how much ease you'd like to have and then just redraw the pattern on other paper, adding 1/2 to 1 inch all the way around. Make a muslin so you can adjust before cutting into your fashion fabric. You may want even more ease in the hips. Good luck.
I think adjusting a raglan is easier than a set in sleeve. What I do is add a quarter inch to each raglan seam, drawing parallel to the original seamline on both sleeve seams and the front and back seams. Trace down one side of the sleeve, then shift it over a half inch before drawing down the other side, to increase sleeve width. Or slice your pattern up the center line and add a strip to widen. This will widen the finished neckline, so you might want to extend it up a little.For the front and back pieces I place the pattern piece half an inch or more away from the fold line to increase the width. Since I need to add more at the hips than the bust I angle this so the bottom is further from the fold than the top and then correct the angle of the line at the hem so it's perpendicular to the lengthwise/grain line.To make a cardigan you have to add to the front center to allow overlap for buttons. You can also copy the front center and neck edge to make a facing. If you want to use a zipper you only need to add seam allowance, no overlap. Even with a tried and true you'll still need to do a muslin to fine tune the alterations. Also remember that different fabrics will require different amounts of ease.
Thank you for your ideas. It always amazes how sometimes I can't see the wood for the trees!
While it isn't a multisize pattern I can always grade it up to the next size or so and trial that.
Also adding to the raglan sleeve seam set off a light bulb moment for me because it might solve the adding ease to the armscythe and I couldn't work that bit out with the raglan. Derrr!
Off I go to draft and toille, draft and toille, daft and troll.
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