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Conversational Threads

Applying a Shirt collar.

Berniece | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I love making shirt/blouses, but I have diffcutly applying the stand of the collar to the front of the shirt to acheive a professional finish.
The join of the “stand” to the front body always looks untidy as I usually have to restitched this a few times to get it right.HAs an articual on this subject ever appeared in th Threads Magazine.


  1. HeartFire | | #1

    You need to get David Coffins book "Shirtmaking" he goes into detail on how to do this, with great success

  2. mem1 | | #2

    Davids book is very good but here is what I do . I sew the collar stand onto the shirt body with the shirt sandwiched between the two sides of the collar stand . The stand has been fused and the outside of the collar stand ins the one with the fusing on it.Press this seam VERY well and make sure that you have this seam very well flattened.then sew the short distance between the seam you have just sewn and the clips for where the collar is attached to the stand You have to do a bit of fiddleing here This is a short curved seam and its a good idea to use a template to get the curves matching perfectly.I draw the curve in with a marker pen which is then removed with a damp cloth BEFORE I press it.You trim this down and cut little wedges out of it so that it will sit beautifully flat and again press very carefully.Next make up you collar agin i use the fuzed collar on the top  and complete the top stitching etc..Now insert this into the gap in the collar stand and attach it to the INSIDE collar stand only press and trim this seam and the turn under the outside collar stand and slip stitch this in place .This means that the slip stitching is completely hidden under the collar. You can then do any top stitching on the collar stand etc .I do all my collars like this and as long as you are carefull with your sema allowances being uniform in size and take the time to press everything it will work really well.

    1. Berniece | | #3

      Thank you mem,
      That was the only way I had not tried but had thought of.I have also come to the conclusion that fabric can play apart in the finish as well.
      I will certianly tried this way on the week-end when I sew my next shirt.

      1. mem1 | | #4

        I think there is a reason that most shirting is a fine cotton or linen!

  3. alotofstitches | | #5

    I make shirts for my boys & hubby too.  I prefer the med. wt. "Shirtmaker" sew in interfacing--you get a good crisp collar like RTW.  I use light wt for mine.  After sewing & trimming interfacing to the stand, I pin it rights together to the shirt (the interfaced stand will be seen from right side of shirt).  Sew, trim, clip and press.  Then pin on finished collar and add the stand facing, that has theneck edge seam allowance pressed up.  Begin sewing at theintersection of the front tab/collar stand, using a very short stitch until getting to point where the collar is in the seam.  Shorten stitch again at the end of the stand/collar seam.  I use pinking shears to trim the curve at the ends, cutting very close to stitching--makes a big difference in the turning.  Trim seam, clip as needed then turn, press.  I pin and baste the entire stand(very important), then top stitch from right side of garment.  This method has less bulk in the stand front edge than even that Islander method. 

    1. Berniece | | #6

      Can you discribe the "shirt maker interfacing that you mention,as in Australia it could be called by another name.
      The pinking sheers are a good idea.Thank you.

      1. alotofstitches | | #7

        The info on the end of the bolt is:  SHIRT MAKER (TM) medium weight, Reorder No. 601 white  For crisp, permanent shaping in collars, cuffs and front openings.  A product of STAPLE SEWING AIDS CORP., 141 Lanza Avenue, Garfield, New Jersey 07026.  It doesn't say the "fabric" content but I guess it's a polyester.  It's not woven and it's not knit, pressed looking similar to pellon but textured surface not smooth like pellon.  I hope this helps.

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