Burda Dec 04 has this wonderful stretch velvet-satin jacket (111) that I am attempting to make. However the front has this interesting vertical open bust dart that I have never seen before. The base of the bust triangle(it starts around waist area and there is a welt pocket right there too !! ), is 2.5 inches wide and corespondingly the outside edge of the front section side seam also sticks out about 2.5 ” Now I spose I could figure out how to sew up the dart with a muslin but instructions also say to add 5/8 seam allowance to this dart….hmmmm, its kinda tricky how to get 5/8 allowance up into apex of dart. Ol’ geometry here, do I make apex of bust dart seam allowance exactly 5/8 ” down from bust dart seamline apex. Is there a resource I can go to that shows how this dart is sewn, or can someone tell me. Its not very clear I know if you cant see picture but I hope someone also has this pattern Thanks a million !!