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Burda Jacket “open” bust dart

morningstar | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Burda Dec 04 has this wonderful stretch velvet-satin jacket  (111) that I am attempting to make. However the front has this interesting vertical open bust dart that I have never seen before. The base of the bust triangle(it starts around waist area and there is a welt pocket right there too !! ), is 2.5 inches wide and corespondingly the outside edge of the front section side seam also sticks out about 2.5 ” Now I spose I could figure out how to sew up the dart with  a muslin but instructions also say to add 5/8 seam allowance to this dart….hmmmm, its kinda tricky how to get 5/8 allowance up into apex of dart. Ol’ geometry here, do I make apex of bust dart seam allowance exactly 5/8  ” down from bust dart  seamline apex.  Is there a resource I can go to that shows how this dart is sewn, or can someone tell me. Its not very clear I know if you cant see picture but I hope someone also has this pattern Thanks a million !!

Miriam

Replies

  1. Marion6422 | | #1

    The reason you are asked to do this is because the dart is such a wide one. I think it means you add 5/8 inch seam allowance to each side inside the dart until you get far enough up to the point where your seam allowance lines meet.  Then you have a solid piece of fabric from there to the point, the way a dart would normally be. You could just not cut the dart seam allowances until after you have folded and stitched the dart, then cut off the excess fabric inside the dart that extends out more than 5/8 inch. Does that make sense?

    1. morningstar | | #2

      thanks so much Marion..I fiddled around with some scraps and just like you said...just make an allowance till they meet, seems to work. I have noticed in several Burda magazines , thats how a lot of their darts are...open gaps that you add allowances too. Kind of  a neat concept...have never seen it in the BIG FOUR patterns.

      Miriam

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