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Drafting a 1-piece facing?

kbalinski | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I know I saw something in an old issue, but “Sewing Muse” is not working today! I need direction on drafting a single facing (neck and armholes) for a sheath dress.  It’s Vogue 8594, and calls for a lining, but I’d really like to use some RPL and skip the lining.  I’ll go search the Archives, but was hoping one of you might save me some time digging through my old issues (I’ve got my hands full with potty-training today, and can’t stray too far for too long!).

Thanks in advance!

Kristine in Michigan

Replies

  1. starzoe | | #1

    The simple way to draft a facing is to use the original pattern as a base. Depending on the style, you will probably need a front facing, a back neck facing, a front armscye facing and a back armscye facing. Give each piece the same matching points as the body. This is quite a bit easier than making the facing all in one piece.To make the facings all in one piece, use your pattern again, this time pin it together at the shoulder seam line, draw the new facing onto the pattern and proceed from there. One thing to consider is this: (from experience) don't make the front and back neck facing too wide, otherwise you are back to sewing a lining which may not lie flat.I realize that some instructions for designing facings suggest making them a bit smaller but I have found that tweaking is not necessary. Make the facings at least 2 - 2 1/2" wide plus seam allowances.

    1. kbalinski | | #2

      Thanks! Right now I'm thinking I'll have two pieces: a front facing and a back facing.  The bodice front should be easy enough to trace off and trim, but the back... ugh.  I will have to muslin the back together (multiple pieces), then trim down and use that as my facing pattern.  You can tell I've got a very, very rough idea of the process!  Muslin looks to be my next step (which should always be where I start, but I'll admit it, I like quick results).  I'll keep you posted...

      Kristine in Michigan

  2. sewelegant | | #3

    Does the lining piece come with the pattern?  Maybe it can be used to cut a back facing using the 2"-2.5" width Starzoe suggested.

    1. kbalinski | | #4

      I just double-checked the instructions and the lining is the exact same pattern pieces just cut from lining fabric.  I got a little excited there for a minute...

      1. tzipi | | #5

        I checked out your blog and I think you are terrific. I love the dresses you sewed and also the cute things for Little miss princess. You are inspiring me to get back to my machine.keep up the good work and keep showing us your accomplishments.

        1. kbalinski | | #6

          Thank you so much! This is the most productive I've been since I was in high school and sewed constantly (17 years ago).  I've learned so much from other bloggers and I always get fast and fantastic responses when I post questions here.  Sewing for my daughter is a great break between my garments (which are so much more work than hers), and she gets a huge kick out of picking her fabrics out from my stash.  Keep up the good work, and share your finished projects, too.  Knowing other people are looking keeps my work at a better level than ever before, so share pics here or at Pattern Review!

          Kristine in Michigan

           

  3. sewelegant | | #7

    I'd really like to use some RPL and skip the lining...

    I do not know what RPL means.

    I have made a few dresses like the one you have there in the picture and found the nicest finish was to line the bodice piece instead of just making facings.  It keeps the neck and sleeve edges turned inward if you cut the neck and armhole edges of the lining just 1/8" smaller and sew to the main bodice with edges matching.  It will pull the lining in just enough.  It can be done fast and easily, all by machine just by thinking it through.  I cannot think how to tell you without going to check it out in one of my sewing books, or just looking at it, but will do so if you need it. 

    MAA

    1. kbalinski | | #8

      Thanks, sewelegant! RPL = Rayon Poly Lycra, which is a stable fabric with a little stretch.  I've seen a lot of sewists rave about it, so I bought some to give it a go.  I've found that wovens with a little stretch are more comfortable (for me) to wear.  I've made 2 pairs of pants with week using stretch twill, and have another length in the dryer ready to be pressed, pinned, and cut!

      If I line just the bodice with the same RPL, my only concern is the thickness of the two layers.  Maybe I have some black knit in a lighter weight that would work for the bodice lining (sorry, thinking out loud now...)!

      Kristine in Michigan

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