Expert Advice Needed: Two-Tone Pleating
I’ve got a gauzy-type fabric with a plain and a satin stripe. I don’t if there’s a name for this technique, but I’d like to stitch in pleats in a way that would hold the shiny satin stripe facing outward, and the gauze stripe on the inside, but billowing open when you move.
I’m going to pleat the fabric first then cut out my pattern (so that I’m sure I end up with the proper width of fabric).
I don’t own a pleater gadget, but I have a trusty iron and a metal hemming guide that I thought I’d use that as a straight edge for ironing the pleats down prior to stitching in place.
1. Is there an official name for this look?
2. Is there a “best way” to stitch the top to manage the pleats as I sew?
3. Should I take a stitch somewhere on the inside gauze part of each pleat to help it sit properly?
4. What should I do about hemming the bottom?
a. If I go with a typical turned up hem, should I hem it before I pleat or after I’m done creating the garment–how do I handle the now gently-folded hemline?
b. I’m also thinking of leaving the bottom with a small frayed edge–it would look appropriate with my design. The satin won’t fray, though, but the gauze will. Can someone recommend how to edge the hem using my serger that would look attractive for both types of pleat?
I’m working on this project today, so I’d really appreciate quick help before I either try doing it myself and risk a botched job or I run out of steam (it’s going up to the 100’s here again today).