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Fitting from the waist down

mem1 | Posted in General Discussion on

Hello Carol, I loved the article on pants and fitting from the waist down. I have acually come to the same conclusion but not in the erudite and organized fasshion which you contributer did. .There is one thing though ,I wish that the author had done more   about how to transfer the fitting changes onto the pattern. For instance in the photo of the person in the pants where the waist band had to be lengthened , there is a sizeable gap in the center front seam between the waist and the hip line . Where would the fabric be added in ? To the sides to the front center or as a wedge shape either side of the center front???. I hope that i dont come across as too stupid ! I actually think this would be a good topic for an article as I often find that in adding fullness in one spot I stuff up another .So I guess the business of adding very targetted fullness is what i am talking about.

Marianne

Replies

  1. SewNancy | | #1

    Search back for Keneth Kings article on fitting a muslin.  His method for transferring adjustments is the best I have come across.  This was always a sticking point for me and he solved it.

    Nancy

    1. mem1 | | #3

      I will have a hunt and hope that the penny drops for me .

    2. mem1 | | #4

      Can you remember which volume it was and what was on the front cover.? It sounds familiar but I cant lay my hans on it.

      1. SewNancy | | #6

        Issue 102 pages 59-63.  It is also in his moulage cd and his pants sloper.  But the pictures are bettr in Threads.  It is really quite simple to do.

  2. kjp | | #2

    Mem, I was noticing the same thing with the article.  My gut when I looked at that is that that fullness should have been added around the waistband to be sure that the seams lay where they are supposed to...unless the person being fitted happened to have all her fullness at the belly, which is unusual but possible.  I would cut and add at each seam or dart whatever fullness is needed (to the waistband) evenly.  Most people probably need more fullness at different parts. 

    1. mem1 | | #5

      I actually think that people are fatter in the front than the back sometimes and that adding to just the front is warrented at times ITS A MYSTERY TO ME HOW THIS DONE i CAN HAVE A GUESS BUT i WOULD LOVE TO KNOW FROM SOMEONE WHO REALLY IS GOOD AT FITTING AND ADDING FULLNESS.

      1. SewNancy | | #7

        Yes, I am certainly fuller in front than in the back.  Check the side seams and see if they pull toward the back or front.  They need to be perpendicular to the floor.  I would slice and add the amount needed pinned under neath and then transfer this amount to the nearest seams.   According to Kenneth King there are net gains and losses in fitting and he transfers them to the nearest seam or seams depending on where it is.  For a full tummy this could add to the length of center front too.  Though that does not seam to be the case here.  Half of the amount that she adds at cf would need to be added to one side of the pattern.  YOu couuld also measure it, but Kenneth Kings method is easier to be accurate with.

        Nancy

        1. mem1 | | #8

          Thankyou Nancy Thats exactly what I wanted to know .

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