Hello! I am making a dress from Butterick 3195. It’s a beautiful (I think, anyway!) dress with a cowl-style neck. But I’m planning a few variations. (This will be the third dress I make from this pattern, so I have some familiarity with it and I know it makes up perfectly for me.)
First, I’m going to use stretch fabric. I’ve lost weight during the past few years and I want to show off a few curves before I get too old! The fabric is quite slinky and I can hardly wait to sew with it, and to wear the results.
The big thing is that I want to insert godets into the hem of the skirt. This is a bias dress, so I’m not sure whether I should use bias-cut godets, straight grain godets, or whether it even matters with stretch fabric. It has a subtle stripe–you have to look closely to see it–so my initial preference is to cut bias godets with the stripe running on the angle opposite to the fabric they’re sewn into.
Does anybody know of any “rules of thumb” for godets inserted into hemlines? I’m thinking they should start halfway between hip and knee for a knee-length dress. This will make the dress fit around the hips but flare out in a beguiling way (hopefully!) for dancing. But how wide should the base of the triangle be? If I want to use diamonds instead (for a handkerchief hem), does that change the optimum width of the godet? If I want a straight hem, are there any other things I should watch out for (i.e. is a straight triangle base all there is to it)?
Also, how many godets should be used? I think one at the front of each leg would look nice. I’m assuming that they must be balanced by godets at the back of each leg. Would it look weird if there is only one godet in back, at the centre back seam? The side seams must also each have one, right? Here’s another question–all of the godets should have the same dimensions, right? (I want to look “sexy”–well, sexy for me–not avant garde.)
I’m thinking of serging a “lettuce edge” hem after all of this godet work. Would that be too much?
You’re probably thinking, “This woman has too many questions!” Yep–I’m starting to wonder if maybe I should just follow the pattern and be done with it. But then I’ll always wonder what could have been…. I have a few sewing books but they are curiously silent on the topic of godets.
Thanks in advance for any advice/tips you may have on this.