I have a friend who would like me to create an oversized mixed material Bomber Jacket. I have a Vogue Pattern but her initial reaction to it was it’s not oversized looking enough. I was planning on adding length and make it a bit roomier but am starting to get creeping doubts going through my head. I think I will do great but the style is out of my wheelhouse
Photos included: 1 line drawings of pattern I have, 2 her fabric choices 3. The fabrics selected and a photo in that collage of one jacket she loves and wants it shaped like. Also the back of the jacket incorporating a small 3×3’ quilt that I’m planning on using along with adding some of the quilt as decorative inserts along the sleeves. I am using a denim for the base over which the sequins will overlay and for the welt pockets.
Any suggestions on adjusting the pattern to be more oversized would be appreciated. I am planning on making it wider, fuller and a much larger collar which will be faux fur.
Thank you!
Replies
Would going up a size give her the "oversized" look she wants? If your pattern is multisized, you can easily grade up a size or two by using the existing grading lines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa9UFy0Q6aA
Generally speaking, larger sizes create bigger fitting problems, but in your case may create the extra room she's seeking. Patterns are designed for erect postured, symmetrical, proportional, B-cupped hourglass figures. Patterns are graded (sized) proportionately, so as the size increases, the width and length increase proportionately. That means that a larger size fits a taller, broader, B-cup figure: larger sizes will not only be larger around the bust, waist, and hips, they will also be LONGER in the armscye depth, back-waist length, shoulder, etc. (That's why folks complain that "patterns are too big!") In your case, the extra length created by grading works to your advantage, making the look she wants.
I'd also consider that your friend may not have the ability to envision what you mean by oversized. Some folks just can't see a line drawing and imagine it in three dimensions. If that's the case, I'd make a muslin of the jacket --- with the extra length, wider collar, etc. Have her try it on, over the sorts of clothing she will wear with the final jacket (e.g. if she's going to wear heavy sweaters with it, you don't want to fit her when she's wearing a tank top.) This way, she can see what the final jacket will look and feel like, and you'll have a compete pattern (the muslin) set for cutting your fashion fabric. Win-win!