Replies

1. 
   solosmocker | Apr 27, 2007 01:44am | #1

   Hi! I do know that you just need the wooly nylon in the loopers. Other than that I am watching your post closely as I have some really nice slinky that I want to sew but don't know quite where to start. I live a VERY casual lifestyle and can't hone in on the style that would work with my slinky. So I have my eyes on you! LOL!

2. 
   Cherrypops | Apr 27, 2007 02:07am | #2

   Hi paula,

   I did a quick search here for slinky knits, this is what i found:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-gatherings/messages?msg=5307.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-gatherings/messages?msg=3855.1

   I hope these help you out.

   CherryPops

3. 
   MaryinColorado | Apr 28, 2007 08:39am | #3

   With the cotton lycra blends I use wooly nylon in the upper looper only, occassionally I have used it in both loopers but is rarely necessary.

   I wouldn't use wooly nylon in the needles of a regular sewing machine.  You can hand wind it onto the bobbin but will have erratic results unless you are one of those brave souls who doesn't mind messing with the bobbin tension.  Most people don't do this because you lose the "perfect" factory setting and may not get it back. 

   I bought a seperate bobbincase for my Husq/Viking Designer 1.  It is a different color so I won't mix them up.  I put it in a baggie while adjusting the tiny screw so I don't lose it.  I use mine for bobbinwork with larger threads.

   Haven't tried the slinky fabric yet.  Good luck, let us know what works for you!  Mary

4. 
   user-217847 | Apr 28, 2007 05:24pm | #4

   Hi Paula,

   I'm just now reading a special feature from an older Stitches Mag. an essential prerequisite to sewing knits with a straight stitch is to use woolly nylon in the bobbin, regular polyester thread on the top spool.

   1. wind your bobbin by machine, but bypass the tension disk and control the thread flow by letting it pass around your finger. the thread should be firmish not floppy. thread the bobbin case normaly.

   2.thread the upper spool normally with polyester thread.

   3. set the stitch length to 3, straight stitch.

   4. when you begin sewing stretch the fabric slightly, if the fabric flutes, then you have stretched too much and if the seam pops when stretched then you have'nt stretched enough. you will stretch less for firmer knits and more for stretchy,light knits. the correct stretch looksslightly loose on the top.

   5. construct garments as per instructions but stitch seams with 2 rows o trim the excessf straight stitching 5mm (1/4inch) apart. trim the excess seam allowance back to the stitching. I do hope this is helpful. this comes from a woman who does all her stretch sewing on a regular sewing machine never on an overlocker says it gives much better results.

   warm regards

   lee (wombat)

5. 
   Crazy K | Apr 28, 2007 05:41pm | #5

   I have done a little bit with the slinky knits.  The first thing I learned after tearing part of my hair out was to use a very simple pattern!  I used my serger with reg. serger thread but the woolly in the loopers would have been better.  One thing about the slinky I used is that the bottom didn't have to be hemmed.  Let your garment hang for a while (i.e. overnight) to the fabric relaxes before you cut your final length if it is pants or skirt.

   When stitching, if you have a fluted edge, play with your differential feed.  DD and I made her a long skirt (elasticized waist), a very simple jacket (no collar and plain front) and then I made another long skirt and using a very very stretchy boucle knit (similar to slinky) I made a blouse with a cut-on cap sleeve.  All turned out o.k. but none would have won honors!!!

   It can be a challenge but you get a very easy to wear non-wrinkling garment!  Good luck to you..........