Replies

1. 
   kayl | Jan 05, 2004 08:55am | #1

   This is just a slit, not frayed out, correct? If so, try "stoting" --

   and try it on a scrap of similar fabric first. In the directions below, I'm going to assume your tear is vertical.

   Get some silk thread that exactly matches the garment, and about a

   #10 between needle (very short and slender). Thread the needle and

   make a tiny knot in one end of the thread, then insert the needle

   into a cross thread about 1/4" back from the tear, and across the tear, and back out again on the right side about 1/4" farther on from the tear. That's your first stitch. You're keeping the silk thread

   inside the yarn of the fabric.

   Second stitch: insert the needle back in at precisely the point it

   came out. Angle the needle so it crosses the tear again, and comes out in a thread about 1/4" from the slit, and one thread down from the

   starting point. Carefully adjust the tension so the two sides of the slit just meet, but don't pucker.

   Third stitch: insert the needle back in where it came out, and stitch

   over to the other side of the slit, again about 1/4" to the other

   side of the slit. Adjust tension.

   Keep going like this until the tear is completely closed, then tie

   off from the back.

   When you're doing this, the stitches should be of slightly different

   lengths, so the ends of the stitches don't form a ridge on each

   side of the tear. Sometimes it's best to stot lightly the length of

   the tear, then go back and do it again. In any case, you'll need

   to press and brush the area.

   Hard part is finding matching silk thread. With luck, the lining

   is silk, and you can steal from it, but I usually wind up unraveling

   scrap silk to get the matching thread. I've also used single strands

   of hair, but that's even crazier to sew with than raveled-out silk

   scraps. <g>

   I have two books of invisible reweaving methods (Fabricon and

   Frenway), and the Frenway one is one I've actually tried myself,

   as you can use ordinary betweens with it, at least on some fabrics.

   I'm a patient person, but I was about ready to scream after doing

   more than a couple of inches. <g> Stoting is about all I have

   patience for.

   Good luck!

1. 
   sewhat | Jan 05, 2004 03:48pm | #2

   Wow, I am impressed with your knowledge!  I have had similar tears to repair, and my usual method is to take a little piece of fusible interfacing cut in a circle and bond that with my iron on the backside of the rip, making sure all the threads in the rip are lined up and not sticking out.  Then I coat the entire ripped area from the front very carefully with Fray-Check, dabbing it in as I go.   Usually works pretty good, but I am sure your method is absolutely the right way to fix a tear.  I will remember that next time I have to fix something that I really care about.

   Happy Sewing.

2. 
   eauinaz | Jan 05, 2004 07:35pm | #3

   what is stotting?

1. 
   kayl | Jan 05, 2004 11:47pm | #6

   That's the mending method of sewing together individual threads that

   I described in my first post.

   Kay

3. 
   MargaretAnn | Jan 05, 2004 10:22pm | #4

   I was very interested to read your post, as I have tried to do something like that without any direction and was not quite satisfied with the result.  As you say, silk thread is hard to find.  Does anyone know of a good web source?  Joann, my only local sewing store, does not carry it any longer.

   Margaret-Ann

1. 
   kayl | Jan 05, 2004 11:46pm | #5

   I buy most of my silk thread either locally at Fabric Depot in Portland, OR, or from Things Japanese, when I go to the Sew Expo in Puyallup. But

   I actually find that unraveling a lightweight habutai silk gives great

   stuff for stoting.

   Paying attention to the tension as you pull the edges together is also quite important.

   Kay

1. 
   MargaretAnn | Jan 06, 2004 02:11am | #7

   But Kay, I live in Ohio, and the only sewing store that might have Habatai is and hour and a half away!  Is there a web source for silk threads and fabric that I can trust?

   Margaret-Ann

1. 
   kayl | Jan 06, 2004 02:53am | #8

   Fabric Depot is at http://www.fabricdepot.com -- I understand they're

   quite satisfactory -- they carry Gutermann silk threads as well as

   some silk yard goods. Things Japanese (Tire silk) is at http://www.silkthings.com. Silk Road Fabrics in Austin, TX (http://www.srfabrics.com), Thai Silks (http://www.thaisilks.com, Baer

   Fabrics (http://www.baerfabrics.com), Supersilk (http://www.supersilk.com, and Waechter's Silks (http://www.fabricsandbuttons.com) are some other reputable places with

   nice silks.

   Kay

2. 
   MargaretAnn | Jan 07, 2004 03:18am | #9

   Dear Kay

   Thank you.  That should keep me happy for a while.  I appreciate the help.

   Margaret-Ann

4. 
   Lonna | Jan 07, 2004 09:29am | #10

   Many, many thanks, Kay!  I shall give it a try.