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lining a unlined dress

sjago | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I’m making a prom dress. The pattern I have in unlined (except for a small amount and the interfacing on the bodice that goes around the back to meet the zipper) The client wants the lining to to be gold on the bottom (the dress is black) and wants it to show up through the slit in the front of the dress. The problem I’m having is
1. How do I attach the gold to the black bodice lining without a seam bump showing through?
Also the gold lining will be sewn to the bottom and up the slit of the skirt so no hem line is shown. Where should I leave a opening so I can turn it?
Any help would be appreciated.

Replies

  1. Teaf5 | | #1

    If I understand your description, the client wants the gold peeking through the black overskirt?

    Wouldn't it be easier to do a godet or inverted pleat in the skirt at the slit, using the gold as the underneath part of the pleat? With a deep inverted pleat, the gold would appear to be a separate layer behind the black, but the gold would not have to extend all the way up to the waistline, eliminating bulk there.

    Another possibility is to treat the gold as another skirt layer; that is, handling it as an underlining for the black and finishing the double layer at the waistline as a single seam allowance.

  2. physicsgirl | | #2

    Am I correct in assuming that the client wants a smoothly lined skirt (maybe even lined to the edge?), but not like a petticoat or godet peeking through? Is there a waist seam? If so, you could make the skirt and bodice separately... and then (as you state) "turn" them -- and then make the waist seam. Last, you could finish over the waist seam on the inside with a ribbon or strip of bias lining fabric to make this smooth to skin. Having a pattern number might be nice for others to give better suggestions...

    Have fun! I love making formal dresses!

    1. sjago | | #3

      Thanks for your suggestions. I didn't think about the ribbon covering the seam. That might do the trick. thanks again!

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