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making the twisted draped neckline.

mem1 | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am on a mission to understand how to make a twisted draped neckline . There seem to be very few patterns out there and not alot of information and yet this is one of the up and coming fashion statements around.

I know that Vionet used them alot but there seems little technical information out there as to how to adapt a basic bodice block achieve them . Anyone have any information???? It would be much appreciated .

Marianne

Replies

  1. Elisabeth | | #1

    When I hear "twisted draped necklines" I think of the type of tops similar to the one in the attached twist top picture. I hope I am thinking of the right thing here since it is something that has intrigued me for a long time. I'm not a big fan of darts as bust shapers, the darts often look oddly artificial. Any kind of variation on the dart is more appealing to me visually. Princess seams, gathers, pleats, tucks, stretch of fabric, I can't think of all the variations, and the twist.

    In the shoulder twist picture the dart fullness has been put upwards and taken up with a twist of the shoulder strap. I love this look! Every time I look at this picture I think how perfectly simple and clever, not to mention pretty, this shaping is.

    These days I see lots of tops with the fullness coming from center front which I find interesting. We are so used to the darting coming from the side or below the bust and having a suspension bridge of fabric between the bust points that a blouse with bust darting from center front looks foreign for a moment. Maybe we are more used to seeing it as a bathing suit top where keeping the garment close to the body between the bust points is important, like the bandeau bikini top with gathering center front or a twist.

    Soon I'll be on summer break at the college where I teach and I am looking forward to some pattern making at home!

    1. mem1 | | #4

      Yes this is just what i am  on about . I am not the most accomplished drafter of patterns so I need to see it . I cant imagine how this would look on a flat pattern. I DOOOO love this foram and thankyou so much for you time and input.

      1. Elisabeth | | #5

        I can't imagine quite what it would look like either. Probably very odd! I'm only just learning pattern drafting and I'm finding it fascinating. And it is fun to talk about, so good to find like minded souls here.

        1. mem1 | | #6

          Well I can now tell you what it looks like . Today I went and bought a top which has the draped neck I am after and have pulled it appart. My mother would be horrified and even i am a little surprised at my self .

          It is impossible to describe but makes perfect sence now that i have pulled it appart.I am actually wondering if I might not draw it and post it for you all to see as it is truley weird!!!

          1. Elisabeth | | #7

            Brilliant! Not only do you know what the flat pattern looks like but you see the construction techniques used. And you can make copies and have several tops. Just think, Leonardo da Vinci wouldn't have known or invented nearly as much as he did if he hadn't taken things apart.If it isn't too much trouble I think it would be fun for everyone to see what the flat pattern looks like. And see if we can figure what the finished top looks like.

          2. sewingcity | | #8

            If you manage to get a drawing completed, please post it - or I can post it on my website if they don't allow the picture in this forum.  I would be interested to see how this design works out on paper.  I haven't seen this design in any of the recent pattern catalogs, probably because it's not "back" in style anymore.  But, you know retro is coming back, and pretty soon, before we know it, we'll be in the 80s again!

            Best regards,

            Becky

            SewingCity.com

          3. mem1 | | #9

            hello, I am in production at the moment and it is working ! i will get my husband who is an atchitect to draw it for me so that you can all see it .

            Marianne

  2. LiseLaure | | #2

    Hello Marianne,

    Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo and Beatrice Zelin show how to draft several twists from the basic bodice and skirt slopers in their book "New Fashion Areas for Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern" (Fairchild Publications, 1972, ISBN 87005-111-3) : high yoke neck twist (basic and variations), skirt twist, bustline twist (neckline designed close to neck, neckline designed away from neck with bare/cut-away midriff). Seeing and understanding how these are developed should help you to design other ones.

    Lise-Laure

     



    Edited 4/20/2005 1:42 pm ET by LiseLaure

    1. mem1 | | #3

      Thankyou ,I will see if I can buy it  on amazon.I really think this would make a great article or series.

      1. LiseLaure | | #12

        Hello Marianne,

        I look forward to seeing the drawing of your pattern you offered to post. In the meantime I came across a Neue Mode twisted neckline pattern. You can see it, pattern pieces included, at http://www.thesewingplace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3118.

        Lise-Laure

  3. eauinaz | | #10

    There's a pattern for a twisted neckline top in the April Burda World of Fashion. I made it after reading some reviews on a pattern review site and was quite please with the result.

    If you would like I could copy and fax the directions which shows the pattern pieces so you would at least have somewhat of an idea of the proportions.

    1. mem1 | | #11

      It would certainly be interesting to see. I am beginning to understand the principles behind making them . It would be an interseing article for the magazine to cover . Iam making a top at the moment but my overlocker has died so i am waiting on that to come back from the repairer and then will finish it . There are lots of ways to have the twist and the drape . So far i am working on one which has a drape a nd twist between a yoke and the body of the top. The twist is done through a loop which is  formed by slashing the body on the bias from the hem to about and inch and a half and the turn ing it back on itself and stitching the seambut leaving about an inch free for the loop . The loop then pulls down the yoke by having the yolk threaded through the loop. The loop is off center because of the diagonal cut . If it was a verticle cut it would be centered and create a V neck.. Another top has the same principle of slashing and   looping but this time the two halves are stiched along an empire like seam and the drape and twist shape under and betweeen the breasts. I havent pulled this one appart yet as I really like the fabric it is made of .I dont have the skills to turn a flat bodice block into this reconfigured pattern . I am determined to do it though.Has any one else done it out the in Gatherings World.??

      Marianne

      1. eauinaz | | #13

        the top I'm referring to doesn't have a loop. There are two extended sections for the yoke that are gathered slightly at the side seams, twisted in the middle and then sewn to the bodice.

        1. mem1 | | #14

          thankyou both for your input . Its interesting that there sees to be a whole range of ways to get this look. I will post when I get the drawings done and get my husband to show me how to do it.I know that once I do know you will probably get bombarded witha whole lot of visuals!!!

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