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Silk Matka interfacing recommendations

Theodora | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi, all,

I am making a silk matka jacket that has a soft rollover collar somewhat similar to the one shown in this Vogue pattern:


I’d show you the exact pattern, but I have cobbled it together from several personal favorites.

Do any of you have recommendations for interfacing silk matka, particularly fusible vs non-fusible?

In a less expensive fabric, I might choose to interface both the under and upper collars with a very light-weight fusible, and that usually gives me great results for soft shaping, but I could use some advice from someone who has tried fusibles on the matka.

You can choose to be part of the solution, or part of the problem. Or like me, you can be an overachiever, and do both.


  1. LizMaynard | | #1

    I've used Fench Fuse with good results on the silk matka.  For your collar to hold it's shape how about using the Fr. F. in the upper collar and HTC Armo Weft for the undercollar (My HTC brochure--they send complimentary--said it's for wool, linen, suiting blends, etc., poly & rayon, moderate support).  I've used it on wools & polys and really like it.  Linen is about same wt. as the silk matka so should do fine.

    1. dinahu | | #2

      where do I get an HTC brochure, I love their stuff  and would like to buy it online or via mail. The fabric stores here only carry Pellon.

      1. LizMaynard | | #4

        I called the company, 888-618-2555, told them I was a dressmaker and used a lot of thier products, etc.  They sent more than I expected!

      2. cottonbets | | #7

        I see that your question about htc interfacing was a while ago, but in case you didn't find it, the web site is http://www.htc-handler.com;  phone is 201-641-4500. I have the brochure, and would be happy to copy or fax it if anyone is unable to get it directly. It is a good resource in terms of what product to use for different applications. The direction you do not want to overlook, or think that you can bypass, is the need to PRESHRINK interfacing! Believe me, we don't each have to learn this on our own!  I have used fusiknit, so-sheer, and form flex-all purpose. I especially like the form flex for giving body to a whole garment (underlining?), because it is all cotton, so breathes. Some other products leave the garment feeling clammy.  The 45"wide option is more expensive than some other choices, but is well worth it. Good luck! 

    2. Theodora | | #3

      Liz, Thanks for the suggestions on the interfacing. I did use fusibles sucessfully, fusing before cutting the pattern pieces.

      The jacket turned out absolutely perfectly. I haven't had anything this lovely in years. Luckily, I made a True-grid of the pattern with appropriate adjustments, because this pattern will be a treasure. I created the body out of a Vogue blouse with shoulder to hem princess seams, filched a Burda collar and messed with it till it fit my neckline and my proportions, and used the Vogue sleeve cap and the starting point for creating my own two-piece sleeve. Since I am a very round size twent-mumble-mumble, I am totally psyched to have created a jacket body that I can adapt right and left. The only fitting change I will make it to raise the armscyces by about half an inch.

      And the matka was a pleasure to sew. I interfaced both the center and side fronts with a fusible knit. The back pieces were underlined in the upper quarter of the pattern pieces and under the armscyce with muslin. The front shoulders had a hair canvas chest piece which smoothed out the shoulder pad nicely in front. (Next time I will cut it a bit lower along the armsyce.) Fusible knit went in the upper collar, and "touch of gold" in the lower. This does allow the collar to roll very softly, which is what I wanted. I didn't know where the roll line should be on the lower collar. (The front doesn't have a roll line and buttons all the way up, so if you leave the top button undone, there is only a slight lapel roll that didn't get a special treatment.) I was concerned about not giving the collar stand in the undercollar any additional support, but I did build in a nice roll eventually. Now that I am finished, I can locate a collar stand and improve this next time. The front facings also got touch of gold. Together with the fusible tricot, it has a nice hand, and not too much weight at all.

      So a total sewing success. On to the next jacket! I will be playing with creating lapels next.

      1. LizMaynard | | #5

        Congratulations on a job well done!  Isn't it gratifying!  FYI about the "Touch O Gold", you do know it should be caught in the seam allowance if used as a permanent interfacing.  I didn't know that the first time I used it.

        1. Theodora | | #6

          Yes, absolutely gratifying, and now I am working on a variation of the same jacket in a silk plaid. Did you all realize that if you mess with the armscye of a front bodice in order to add additional take-up to an underarm dart, you can virtually guarantee for yourself that it will be impossible for your plaid to match from front across the sleeve cap to the back? Live and learn.

          No, Liz, I didn't realize that about Touch of Gold, and thanks for the heads up. I seldom use a fusible heavy enough that I don't just go ahead and fuse the whole pattern piece. At what point does it de-fuse? Laundering? Just in normal wear? Actually, I can think of some instances when I might want to take advantage of this feature. Like in little girl collars with embroidery, where the fused state would be good as a stabilizer, but unfused would be softer and prettier after the work is finished.

          1. LizMaynard | | #8

            Sorry, I can't answer your question.  The HTC info with the "Touch O Gold" is where I saw it just by chance after I'd used it.  It can be peeled off and replaced time and again it said.  For little girls collars--I'm not sure it would be a good stabilizer for embroidery since it's rayon.  I embroider with tear away, then cut collar and use self fabric for interfacing since all others are too stiff for look I want on a child.

      2. Sanah | | #9


        This note is not so much about the types of interfacing you used -- although you've encouraged me to use the Touch of Gold which I haven't tried yet -- but I loved reading how you put different pattern pieces together and made them fit.  I've often seen a feature in one pattern and wonder if I could put it with another successfully.

        The fact is, I have tons of designer Vogue patterns from the 80s.  I still love them but realize that to update them I'll have to make quite a few changes, like narrowing the shoulders, reducing the should pad sizes, raising the arm scyes, adding some darts, make them fit closer to the body, etc. The only thing I'm sure I'll have to lose is those dropped notch collars -- I have no idea what to do with that.   I think I have the alteration skills for these things but exchanging pieces from different patterns -- I don't know.  Anyway, I'll definitely have to exchange the one piece sleeve (which I hate) for the two piece sleeve.  I recently purchased a flexible ruler to measure the arm scye so I just might be successful.

        Your post also reminded me to purchase some more Tru Grid.  I caught some muslin on sale and bought a 25 yrd roll which I've been using for toiles.  I don't know why I love tailoring jackets, they're so much work, but I do.  Apparently you love it also!

      3. rjf | | #10

        Good Morning,

        Your jacket sounds terrific.  It's nice to hear from someone who has had a great success and it's doubly good because you can be proud of the job you did AND you get the jacket to wear.  I'd love to see it......would you post a picture?  I'm not sure I know silk mat??? fabric.         rjf

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