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To Underline or Not to Underline??

ablakemo | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi Everyone! Everyone is so helpful so I’d like to put a question out for some feedback.

I’m going to try making my first pair of pants (I’ve only made overalls and swet pants before) so I’ve done some reading. I’m using light weight wool/polyester blend, it has a nice drape and body. Should I underline the pants with silk organza? I’ve read that it will improve shape and discourage wrinkles. Anyone’s thoughts???

Also, has anyone “shrunk the knee” on the pants they’ve sewn? Was it useful/sucessful? If you “shrink the knee” would you do the same to the silk organza if you underlined the pants, or just cut the organza to the same length as the shrunk fashion fabric????

I don’t mind taking the time with loving details, I’d like the pants to be very nice. Any thoughts????



  1. MegVT | | #1

    I underlined a pair of unfitted pants with silk organza in order to give the fashion fabric some body.  Unfortunately, the silk organza ripped in the upper thigh/crotch area.  I don'tk know if this is because the fashion fabric has more ease, or if the pattern simply isn't fitted...


  2. SewNancy | | #2

    Unless the pants are fitted I would not underline with silk organza.  It will make the pants less drapey. 


  3. kjp | | #3

    Underlining with a fusible knit interfacing (French fuse, fusiknit) may also give you excellent results.  I would sample what you want to try and see what drapes the nicest.  Make sure you preshrink your interfacing if you go that route! 

    I assume your fabric does not have any stretch from your description?  I use mostly stretch fabrics for pants, so I rarely underline them.

  4. mjorymer | | #4

    Since you are using a wool poly blend, I would not suggest that you underline with silk organza and you probably can't shrink out the knee area because of the polyester---it won't conform to steam shaping as would a natural fiber fabric. 

    However, I do suggest that you line the pants or make a pant liner.  Either would help keep wrinkles at bay.   

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