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Ultrasuede: Advice please…

Ramc | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

I will be making a jacket for my granddaughter (age 16, so you know it has to be specifically what she wants…) from Ultrasuede.

I am concerned about making buttonholes in it.  Does anyone have experience doing this? Any recommendations for type of buttonhole? I have been thinking that welt buttonholes might be best.

Does Ultrasuede tear easily? I wonder how much reinforcement the patch pockets need? And how much the buttonholes might need?

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this fabric!





  1. user-60627 | | #1

    You CAN make buttonholes in Ultrasuede.  I don't recommend it, unless you are looking for an exercise in frustration (it was long ago, I was young and stupid, there was very little written about this fabric, and no handy internet sites to ask about it).  You can do a leather buttonhole (little teeny stitched box, then slit the box), or you can do a welt buttonhole, as you suggested.  It kind of depends on the look of the jacket (any maybe how many buttonholes you have to make).  If you use the slit buttonholes, you are definitely going to have to put some interfacting between the layers (the Palmer & Pletsch book recommends fusible interfacing, if I remember correctly).  If you do welt, you could do some variant of organza patch?

    Remember, Ultrasuede is actually a knit, so it will tear (like paper sometimes, when it gets old and really soft), so you are going to have to reinforce the patch pockets behind, so they don't tear right off at the stitching after she wears it awhile.  Hopefully, you are lining this jacket?  If not, and depending on the silouette, you might try to talk her into it being lined, it will be much easier to put on and where (Ultrasued tending to be a very "sticky" fabric to wear).


    1. Ramc | | #2

      Thanks, Bel Argent. That's sort of what I figured I would have to do and had planned to do the Patch with welts and some good reinforcement at buttonholes and patch pockets, not sure what I will use. And, yes, we are lining it!


      1. user-60627 | | #3

        See if you can find Palmer & Pletsch's book on sewing Ultrasuede.  I don't know if it is still in print, but you can probably get it through your library (the book is about 15 years old now).  It is a very good resource for sewing Ultrasuede and it might help you clarify your ideas on how to proceed with this jacket (the techniques won't have changed, although some of the interfacing brands might have).  Have fun, it sounds like it will be lovely.

        1. Ramc | | #5

          Again, I thank you, Bel Argent.  I will look for that book. The articles I have saved from Threads (can't keep all the magazines!) don't seem to include anything on Ultrasuede. I wish there were some way to access Threads articles on line!


          1. MaryAnn | | #6

            The book is still available.  Get it through the Palmer/Pletsch web site: http://www.palmerpletsch.com

            You can check used book sites and amazon if you wish, but don't order from them until you've checked the price at P/P.




          2. Ramc | | #7

            Thank you, Mary Ann. The P&P website was new to me!

  2. mem | | #4

    There was an artcile about sewing with ultrasuade in Threads a few years back .

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