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What’s the minimum amount of ease for..

educo | Posted in Patterns on

A really tight sleeve. It’s all over the runways on jackets, dresses, and shirts. I want to make a really fitted sleeve for a dress. I know I will be adding a small amount of ease, but how low can i go before I feel like if I move my arm, the seams are going to explode?

Thanks for any feedback..

Replies

  1. mainestitcher | | #1

    I suppose that depends on how...umm...muscular your arms are. (Maine stitcher looks sadly at own arms, paste-y from lack of sun and soft from neglect.) And what you're going to do in the dress.

    You'll be raising the armscye, yes? And flattening the cap to allow for a tad more movement.

    I suspect that it will depend on the material, and how comfortable the tight sleeve is in any given type of fabric. It seems as though an inch of ease around your bicep would work. If you're making a dress form a silk/lycra blend, maybe even less.

  2. SewTruTerry | | #2

    I would think that you could get by with less ease if you were to cut the sleeve on the tru bias.  I have several sleeveless blouses that do this so that there is no need to put in a zipper or buttons.  Worth a try I guess.  Also raiseing the armsyce will give you much more mobility.  It seems counter intuitive but really works.  I learned this from a woman that wanted me to add sleeves to a sleeveless dress for religious reasons.  Good luck and let us know how it works for you.

    1. SewNancy | | #3

      If you use a fabric with some lycra it will be more comfortaable too. The other place to help comfort is where the armskye falls. I have a foward shoulder and need to scoop out a bit of the front armskye and sleeve. This is easier to do when you have the sleeve in. Feel where it is hitting and take some out. The point is, you are making a custom outfit and there is no reason not to adjust where you need to.
      Nancy

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