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which needle to use – 95/ 5cotton/ lycra

TashaGirl | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am just starting to sew on a pair of pants made from a heavier cotton-lycra blend about 95% cotton 5% lycra.  Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of needle will work best?  Cutting out the fabric was a real chore when cutting across the grain with 2 layers!  I just made a cotton/lycra blend knit top and had problems with stitches skipping….


  1. edgy | | #1

    Hi Tasha,

    I use cotton/lycra a lot and use a rotary cutter which I find to be much easier than scissors on most fabrics. I'll leave it to someone else to address skipping stitiches.


  2. stitchmd | | #2

    When in doubt I start with one labelled all purpose for knits or wovens. You probably need to go with one for medium or heavy weight fabrics. Also when in doubt the best approach is to try more than one, sewing on scraps. Skipped stitches can have other causes. What kind of thread are you using? Stitch length? Try rethreading and reinserting your bobbin. Sometimes the threads fall out of place unnoticed.

  3. FitnessNut | | #3

    I would use a size 75 or 90 stretch needle, depending on the weight on the fabric and testing it on scraps for skipped stitches before sewing on the garment. If your stitches are still skipping, I'd move to a ballpoint needle in the same sizes. Sometimes you will get skipped stitches if the needle needs to be replaced, so keep that in mind.

    Good luck with your project.

    1. TashaGirl | | #4

      Thanks for the suggestions.  I tried an 80/12 Ballpoint needle with 100% polyester thread and everything seems to be working well.

  4. SewNancy | | #5

    I had problems with skipped stitches on a slinky knit and found that I needed to use a 90 stretch needle and sewers aid on the needle applied every so often.  Make sure that thread is polyester,  more stretch .  I have not had any problem with cotton lycra, but have had problems with tension with topstitching on heavier stretch denim and largest needle  I could find helped also, Sewers Aid.


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