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Wrap Blouse Problems

Nacer | Posted in Gather For A Chat on

I am having a terrible time fixing the neckline on a wrap blouse….it is gapping…..please let me know your thoughts….thanks….

Replies

  1. woodruff | | #1

    If you can get your hands on Sandra Betzina's power sewing, or her wrap blouse pattern (at her website, I think), she will have excellent suggestions for your problem. There are several things that make such a gaping neckline on wraps. One is that you might need a full bust adjustment because your cup size is larger than a B, and the other is that the diagonal line of the front is on the bias, and it naturally wants to stretch. To fight the tendency to stretch, you have to apply stay tape or a thin bit of selvege to that seamline, and maybe even draw it up a fraction of an inch to make the edge hug your body. Both these issues are covered in Betzina's books.

    1. Nacer | | #2

      Thank you so much for promptly suggesting something for the gaping neckline....I am making the blouse in muslin first and will try your suggestion....I also thought that if I cut the front on the bias, then the neckline will be on the straight of grain....that will make the stripes go diagonal but if there is enough fabric, it would certainly add interest to the blouse....I am using Vogue 7340, and eliminating the sleeves....This is my first try at a forum and I must say, this must be beginner's luck....THANKS AGAIN, from Wilbraham, Massachusetts!!

      1. mem | | #3

        When you have it on does it fit across the bust and are the center front marks on your center front ? If they arent you probably need to do the full bust adjustment . If it all ok and you are getting the gaping along the edge then the stay tape is the way to go and you could confirm this by darting along that bias front edge and removing the excess fabric . If it all fits really well after this you will know that you need to stay it and do it the minute you cut the pattern piece out. You do this by cutting the stay tape the exact length of that bias seam on the PATTERN and then attaching it to the seam line on the wrong side of you fabric pieces and the sewing on the facing as usual.

        1. Nacer | | #4

          Thanks for the advice and the recommendation to use stay tape.....I will try it soon and let you know how it works out.....Nacer, in MA

          1. mem | | #6

            The other reason it might be gaping is that you are narrow across the chest??

          2. mygaley | | #7

            My DD, while very tall and slender has quite square shoulders.  If we didn't adjust the shoulder width, the front necklines always gaped and pulled.  Galey

  2. sewfar | | #5

    Sew New Magazine April 2002 had a very detailed article by Barbara Weiland on "wrap fitting tips that will ensure a figure hugging neckline that won't gap and leave you over exposed"  I don't know if Threads had a similar article sometime but I did really like this one as it addresses cup size, shoulder and back adjustments etc for a really good fit.  Good luck.

    1. Nacer | | #9

      Since subscribing to Threads I have let my subscription to Sew News go but I did keep a few issues and the April, 2002 was the first one that I put my hand on!!!! I found the article and plan to try it this weekend....thank you so much for your help....I will let you know the end results....Debbie in MA

      1. AndreaSews | | #10

        I just today completed a very similar vogue pattern, and dealt with a very similar problem.  A friend pinched & pinned for me, right at the middle of the curve across the chest.  I took it home, went to the pattern, cut across the pattern from the middle of the curve, right across to the side seam.  Then I rotated the pieces toward each other, overlapping them at the curve slightly, just to take in that difference, but keeping things the same by the side seam.  That fixed the fit.  20/20 hindsight though--this makes the piece longer by the side seam than on the other side, so you'll need to add to the length on the shortened side!!  Good luck with your blouse!

  3. SewNancy | | #8

    YOu might need to ease in as much as an inch or more to fix the gapping. Here are a couple of ways to do this. With a piece of stay tape cut to the pattern length and shortened about 1/4 " per cup size, pin to diagoal and using lots of pins, I mean lots, put in perpendicular to seam (wrong side) ease the diagonal to the tape, sew and steam out the ease. The other way is to use extra fine straight iron on tape and essentally do the same thing, but press to attatch. The bias on a wrap neckline can really stretch. If this is a muslin, you can take out small darts that press flat in tissue. But, because of stretch, you will still probably have to ease. Also, leave the pattern pinned on the piece until just before you use it. Don't try it on ontil you stay tape it might also keep it from stretching.
    Nancy

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