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Draft a Two-Piece Collar with a Stand

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How to design a two-piece collar with a stand for a blouse made from your sloper

In Threads magazine #137 and #138, Kathleen Cheetham shows how to take a sloper (a set of customized basic patterns) and make a shirt pattern to match the unique size, shape, and personal fitting preferences of the intended wearer. She demonstrated step by step how to add the fitting and design ease in the bodice. Then she walked the reader through designing the sleeves, cuffs and collar. Here, we show how to design a two-piece collar with a stand for a blouse made from your sloper. The two-piece collar with stand extends all the way to the button extension.

Draw the neckline

Measure from the center back to the button extension and draw a line that length.

Measure the neckline and mark the positions of the CB (center back), shdr. (shoulder), yoke, CF (center front), and extension on the line.

At CB, square up 4-1/2 inches (11.5 cm) and mark the following increments:

• 1 inch (2.5 cm) for the stand
• 2 inches (5 cm) for a gap
• 1-1/2 inches (4 cm) for the collar

draw the neckline for the two-piece collar
Square up at CB

At CF, square up a 4-1/2-inch (11.5-cm) line and mark the following increments:

• 3/4 inch (2 cm) for the curve of the stand
• 1 inch (2.5 cm) for the stand
• 2-3/4 inches (7 cm) for the collar

Mark the increments for the two-piece collar
Square up at CF

Draw the stand

Lay a hip curve or French curve on or near the yoke and shoulder points, curving up to touch the 3/4 inch (2 cm) point on the CF line. Follow the curve to draw a line continuing past the CF the distance of the front extension.

Draw the stand
Lay a hip curve or French curve on or near the yoke and shoulder points

Measure up from the line and mark 1 inch evenly across the full length.

Mark 1 inch along collar
Measure up from the line

Draw a smooth curve between the two lines from the CF to the front extension.

Smooth curve
Draw a smooth curve


Draw the two-piece collar

On the stand, measure in 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the CF.

Draw the collar
Measure from the CF

On the CB line at the 2 inch (5 cm) mark, square a line the length of CB to shoulder.

Square a line from neckline to shoulder for the collar
Square the line

Position your curve to match the stand line from the shoulder to the CF and write down the measurement points at the shoulder and CF. (Shown here in cm.)

Match the stand line
Position your curve

Turn the curve over and match the numbers to the same points to replicate the exact line along the collar to just short of the CF line at the 1/8-inch (3-mm) mark.

Turn the curve over
Turn over the curve
Replicate
Match to the same points

On the CF line at the 2-3/4-inch (7-cm) mark, square out a 1-1/2-inch (4-cm) line for the collar point.

Line for the collar point
Square out for the collar point

Draw a straight line to connect the new line above with the CB line.

Connect the lines
Connect the new lines

From the 1/8-inch point on the collar stand, lay a rule or measuring tape and pivot until you get a 3 inch (7.5 cm) line to the collar edge and draw a line.

Pivot from the collar line and measure 3 inches
Use a measuring tape to form a line
Draw a line to form the collar edge
Draw the line as measured

Complete the collar

Fold the pattern paper along the center back line. Use an awl to punch key points and outline.

Use an awl
Use an awl to punch key points and outline

Unfold the pattern paper. Connect the dots to complete the collar and stand outlines. Mark notches at center back, shoulder and center front. (Yoke notch is optional.)

Connect the dots
Unfold the pattern paper

Separate the collar and stand before adding the seam allowance.

On the collar, follow the CB line to draw the straight of grain. You can also cut it on the bias.

On the stand make the straight of grain line perpendicular to the CB line.

Assemble your custom collar and stand as usual.

Kathleen Cheetham specializes in plus-size patterns. Visit PetitePlusPatterns.com.
an Online Extra to Threads #138, pp. 53-57

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Previous: How to Use Your Sloper to Finish Your Shirt Next: How to Make a Shirt Stand Collar
Discuss

Discuss

  1. Katielynne | | #1

    Is it just me, or all of these photographs out of focus? I'm surprised because I always expect and see superior illustrations/photography with Threads and Threads Contributor articles (whether they're online or in the magazine hardcopy). I wish I could read the photos' information better!

  2. User avater
    Sewista | | #2

    It is difficult to read which is CB or CF.

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Basic Torso Adjustments
Bust Fitting
Sleeves and Shoulders
Construction Secrets: Collars, Yokes, Cuffs, Vents, Plackets
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