Felted Wool Jersey
Simplicity 2313 is a great pattern that has four distinct looking jackets. I chose the bias ruffled version to try out some wool jersey that I felted my self in the washer and dryer. The felting came out great and none of my edges needed a finish. I eliminated all interfacing and facings from the pattern, giving my finished jacket more of a sweater feel, which I love. For research I used Linda Lee’s cover article on felting and sewing wool jersey from Threads #147.
For my edges I used simply a clean cut on the bias ruffle and the peplum. For the underneath bodice layer I cut a 3/4 inch strip of felted jersey and lined the edge of with the garment edge. I then triple zigzagged down the strip. Then, with my applique scissors, I cut back the strip so that two layers of fabric would be exposed and give a bit more dimension. This gave just enough body to the edge. I have seen many felted wool jackets in high end shops and they all seem to have lapped topstitched seams. I wanted something a little softer and more sweatery looking. In Lee’s article there are a few different ways to do the buttonholes. I experimented with them all and decided on a cut rectangle of the wool placed in the buttonhole position. I then stitched a tiny “box” in the fabric rectangle and slit it open for the button. The edges of fabric are then cut back to the stitched box. Lee’s article is very informative and helpful on this subject.
Simp 2313 from felted wool jersey.
Back bodice with peplum.
Bias ruffle with clean cut edge finish. "Under jacket" with raw finish and overlay strip of felted jersey triple zigzagged to edges.
Lower front bodice detail