Stay the Fly and Anchor the Pockets - Threads

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Stay the Fly and Anchor the Pockets

I'm working on copying this skirt for a client. She wants it in different colors, and it is no longer in production.

fly front closure example  

It has jeans-style pockets and a fly-front opening.

While it is a ready-to-wear skirt, it has a nice interior pocket stay detail that extends across the front and finishes the fly-front opening.

Since I need to figure out how to construct this detail to duplicate the skirt, I'll take you with me on my journey of discovery.

pockets inside the skirt sample  

At look at the skirt's interior shows that the stay extends from the side seam to the center zipper. It also functions as the back of the pocket.

On the zipper's underlap side, the stay also creates the zipper shield/underlap.


pockets inside the skirt sample 2   The pocket front (facing) is a separate piece, which is the black fabric in the photo.


fly front closure seam sample  

This skirt has a cut-on facing for the zipper overlap, which eliminates bulk at the center front. However, the body of the skirt still needs to be joined to the stay.

Move the facing edge so it falls to the side of the zipper. This key information is needed to draft the stay.

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Comments (15)

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: My instinct says not to use lycra--the pull horizontally would cause the lycra to curl,and make a ridge inside the skirt. Stay with a woven fabric on this one.
Posted: 8:58 pm on September 2nd

user-2347320 user-2347320 writes: could you use a lycra type fabric for the stay from the inside pocket edge to center front? Or would this pucker and get messy.
Posted: 4:59 pm on September 2nd

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: Thanks for that Jcorte!

It's all an acquired skill, and I'm glad that I can make it clear.

I should also give a shout-out to Judy Neukam and Evamarie Gomez, who do the tech editing--they keep me on the rails and sounding intelligent!
Posted: 8:15 am on September 2nd

jcorte jcorte writes: Kenneth,
I really appreciate your teaching ability, which makes me feel that this task is doable. I love stays in pants and skirts, so your article was very instructive. Thank you again.
Posted: 6:46 am on September 1st

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: The phrase is actually "two-fer"--autocorrect kicked in here!
Posted: 8:59 am on August 29th

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: You're too kind!

It was a "two-fee" I needed to figure out how to make this for my client, so sharing it was a bonus!
Posted: 4:32 pm on August 28th

CKsews CKsews writes: Thank you, Kenneth! I have been looking for method to rework 2 wonderful ready-wear corduroy pants that need the waist area refitted from pleated-front design. This method with the full 'stay' incorporated with the pockets and zipper placement provides my answer. Your instructions are so clear and you are a treasure to all of us who love clothing construction! Of course, you also give us a great look at 'deconstructing' a ready-made in order to create pattern of same design as you intended - much appreciated!
Posted: 10:52 am on August 28th

ergore ergore writes: You are brilliant; your instructions are clear and easy to follow. Love the "tummy-control" aspect. Thanks so much.
Posted: 7:46 am on August 28th

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: Thanks for that, Leine!
Posted: 5:58 pm on August 27th

Leine Leine writes: Kenneth, as always, your tutorial is so very clear, and technique amazing. Thank you for sharing with us. Burda 6898 has a similar pocket stay and fly construction technique for the trousers. However, anyone can follow your instructions and easily draft their own from any pattern they are using, skirt or trousers.
Posted: 4:08 pm on August 27th

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoy reading my posts!
Posted: 4:05 pm on August 27th

FirstSnow FirstSnow writes: Love this! Can't wait to use it. I have seen something like this in ready-to-wear and can now use it in garment construction. Thank you Kenneth D. King! Really enjoy your contribution to Threads magazine.
Posted: 10:08 am on August 27th

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: I don't know of a pattern that incorporates this detail, so that's why I had to figure out how to draft it. Easy enough to do!

And yes, the stay is also flattering and tummy-controlling!
Posted: 8:07 pm on August 26th

user-262254 user-262254 writes: Is there a pattern with this construction in it, without having to draft it?
Posted: 7:43 pm on August 26th

user-3220369 user-3220369 writes: Have a favorite skirt just like this. It is so comfortable and the panel helps with tummy control. Thank you for showing "how to" so I can make another. I was waiting for the skirt to die so I could deconstruct it! Now I don't have to wait.
Posted: 7:03 pm on August 26th

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