Mary McFadden Exhibit in D.C.

How to Do a Slipstitch

August 13th, 2009 in sewing, fundamentals

Kenneth King, contributor

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Photo: Kenneth D. King

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This is an excellent hemming and finishing stitch because the thread is hidden inside a fold when it’s sewn properly. The needle “tunnels” between the layers of the folded edge—hence the word “slip.” Use it for hemming and sewing linings in or garment sections together. To keep the stitches flat and hidden, tunnel the needle about 1mm below the fold. In hemming and finishing applications, keep the thread tension snug but not tight; otherwise, you’ll get a ripple where the stitching is.

Blind on both sides: When you hem, emerge from behind the fold on the hem allowance. Next, take up one yarn of the body fabric. Pull the thread.

Then, about 1mm below the hem edge fold and slightly behind it, tunnel the needle for about 1⁄4 inch, before it emerges for the next stitch. Pull the thread. That was one-stitch cycle; repeat.

Blind on one side: Emerge from behind the fold. Take a 1⁄4-inch-long stitch through the opposite side and re-emerge. (This stitch shows on the wrong side.)

Then tunnel the needle for about 1⁄4 inch through the fold for the next stitch. Pull up the thread. Use this stitch for sewing linings to facings or when you need invisible stitches on one side only.

Excerpt from Threads, Issue 135, p. 65.

posted in: sewing, fundamentals

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Comments (3)

JDtailor writes: I find it easier to do exactly opposite: keep the body of the garment towards me, and catch the hem on the away side. This is also the stitch to use for a pinked (catch 1/4" down) or seam-binding-edged hem. Keep the stitch under 3/8" total. Posted: 1:08 pm on August 26th

zzz123 writes: Many, many thanks for explaining this WITH PHOTOS! As a beginning quilter the slipstitch is used to attach the quilt binding and I've had such trouble trying to do this stitch. This really helps! Thanks again! :) Posted: 7:14 pm on August 24th

boogey writes: This is a useful thing to know I have been using it for years Posted: 10:18 pm on August 18th

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