Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting shows how to improve a blouse, shirt, or other top by changing the bust dart’s angle. For a fuller bust (a C cup or above), a dart that slants upward toward the bust apex is more flattering than one that extends perpendicular from the side seam.
Louise demonstrates how to find the bust point, or apex, on the body, and then how to transfer this level to the pattern. This step is essential for a final dart that fits the body properly.
Once the bust apex level is marked on the pattern, you draw the new dart seamline, 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches below original dart at side seam. Rotate the old dart closed, and a new dart opens, which extends all the way to the pattern’s bust point. This is not where you want the finshed dart point, however. Louise explains how…
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Can I use this technique to increase the slope of the dart?
Is this a C Cup in Sewing Cup sizes or in RTW Bra Sizes?
Krischick, Louise says this is for C-cup and above bra sizes.
Carol Fresia
Threads Senior Technical Editor