Put a Dart on a Slant | Video
Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting shows how to improve a blouse, shirt, or other top by changing the bust dart’s angle. For a fuller bust (a C cup or above), a dart that slants upward toward the bust apex is more flattering than one that extends perpendicular from the side seam.
Determine the bust point
Louise demonstrates how to find the bust point, or apex, on the body, and then how to transfer this level to the pattern. This step is essential for a final dart that fits the body properly.
Rotate the dart
Once the bust apex level is marked on the pattern, you draw the new dart seamline, 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches below original dart at side seam. Rotate the old dart closed, and a new dart opens, which extends all the way to the pattern’s bust point. This is not where you want the finshed dart point, however. Louise explains how to determine the correct new dart point placement, and to draw new dart legs. Finally, she shows how to fold and true the side seam at the base of the new dart.
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