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Put a Dart on a Slant | Video

Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting shows how to improve a blouse, shirt, or other top by changing the bust dart’s angle. For a fuller bust (a C cup or above), a dart that slants upward toward the bust apex is more flattering than one that extends perpendicular from the side seam.

Determine the bust point

Louise demonstrates how to find the bust point, or apex, on the body, and then how to transfer this level to the pattern. This step is essential for a final dart that fits the body properly.

Rotate the dart

Once the bust apex level is marked on the pattern, you draw the new dart seamline, 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches below original dart at side seam. Rotate the old dart closed, and a new dart opens, which extends all the way to the pattern’s bust point. This is not where you want the finshed dart point, however. Louise explains how to determine the correct new dart point placement, and to draw new dart legs. Finally, she shows how to fold and true the side seam at the base of the new dart.

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About This Video Series

Louise Cutting, a Threads contributing editor, is a renowned designer and teacher. She focuses on industry sewing techniques that help home sewers achieve a professional result. In Volume 8 of her popular Industry Insider Techniques video series, Louise shares methods for improving your garments with precision construction tips, design ideas, and better closures. This volume includes the following 12 videos: Put a Dart on the Slant Reduce Pocket Bulk Trim a Dolman Sleeve Proper Corner…

More About this Video Series


  1. simplypat | | #1

    Can I use this technique to increase the slope of the dart?

  2. User avater
    krischick | | #2

    Is this a C Cup in Sewing Cup sizes or in RTW Bra Sizes?

  3. CarolFresia | | #3

    Krischick, Louise says this is for C-cup and above bra sizes.

    Carol Fresia
    Threads Senior Technical Editor

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