Full-busted women often have trouble finding a good fit in ready-to-wear garments, and it’s not much easier when working with commercial patterns. Daryl Lancaster, a frequent Threads contributor and sewing instructor, explains how to determine the pattern size you need for your body structure. Then she explains how to add or increase a bust dart to improve the fit.
Find your pattern size
Daryl suggests working with the chest size, rather than the full-bust measurement, to determine which pattern size to sew. Take the chest measurement around the body, above the bust and under the arms. Then measure the full bust. There’s an easy formula for using these dimensions to calculate the pattern size you need.
You’ll also learn how commercial pattern sizes were developed in the decades following World War II, and why they don’t fit most women straight from the envelope.
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