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Creating a Beautiful Shirt Hem

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Since shirttails are usually tucked into pants and not visible, how important is the shirt hem? My answer: very!

As one of the last steps in the shirtmaking process, hemming is easy to neglect. Having made hundreds of men’s shirts, I know that by the time I am ready to hem, I am often not sewing at my best, and I’m eager to be finished.

I want to share a number of methods I use to achieve the best look possible on the shaped hem of a dress shirt. A straight hem is easy to achieve. Hems with deep curves present challenges, though. Like all fabrics cut on the bias, curves are prone to stretching. Even on ready-to-wear shirts, it’s common to find a wavy, uneven-looking hem. That’s a clear sign the bias edges have been stretched more than they should have been.

Sewing pattern instructions…

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  1. Susansj | | #1

    Great advice.

  2. leassy | | #2

    I have also had success using wash away fusing tape to glue down the final turned edge. Then you don't have to remove pins and the layers don't shift.

    1. User avater
      Peter_Lappin | | #3

      That's an excellent idea -- thanks for sharing it!

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