Since shirttails are usually tucked into pants and not visible, how important is the shirt hem? My answer: very!
As one of the last steps in the shirtmaking process, hemming is easy to neglect. Having made hundreds of men’s shirts, I know that by the time I am ready to hem, I am often not sewing at my best, and I’m eager to be finished.
I want to share a number of methods I use to achieve the best look possible on the shaped hem of a dress shirt. A straight hem is easy to achieve. Hems with deep curves present challenges, though. Like all fabrics cut on the bias, curves are prone to stretching. Even on ready-to-wear shirts, it’s common to find a wavy, uneven-looking hem. That’s a clear sign the bias edges have been stretched more than they should have been.
Sewing pattern instructions…
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