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Make a Faux French Seam

Control fabric layers for accurate seam finishing
Threads #214, Summer 2021
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Turn of cloth is familiar to most garment sewers and quilters. Whenever fabric is folded, some of its width is taken up by the fold. A fabric folded in half always measures less than half its original width. The difference is almost unnoticeable in thin fabrics but becomes more obvious in bulkier fabrics.

Turn of cloth also has an effect when one piece of fabric wraps around another. For example, a shirt cuff’s inner layer must go around your wrist, but the cuff’s outer layer has to go around the inner layer as well as your wrist. Therefore, the outer layer must be slightly larger.

Each time you sew layered and folded fabric, such as in a collar, jacket lapel, cuff, or lined patch pocket, you deal with turn of cloth. If you’ve ever turned up a hem on a straight garment, especially one in a thick fabric,…

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