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Adapting pattern to hide centre seam

Hels | Posted in General Discussion on

 

Hi, I really like this forum!

I hope someone can help me and maybe the posts will help others too..

I am making my wedding dress using this pattern

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8190-products-5438.php?page_id=94

 – option B – to make my wedding dress with my mum!

We’ve made a toile and are happy with the fit, foundation and skirt. However, now I’ve put it on, I don’t really like the centre seam down the front. 

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on whether it would be possible to adapt the pattern to have one front piece and create asymmetric folds, rather than the ruching? similar to the bodice of this dress..

http://tellthebride.com/designers/maggie-sottero/alandra

I’m happy with having the seam in the lining and foundation pieces but wanted to try to cover it up with the top layer. 

I’ve bought a dress form and we tried to fold the top layer on the form and pin to the lining pieces but it didn’t work very well!

It’s difficult to pull the folds tight to the lining pieces. 

I did also try creating the folds flat like I have read on other posts, and I think this would work for the back..but because of how the bodice is curved at the top it’s not really working flat either,

Any ideas would be much appreciated!!

The other option might be to keep the top layer flat as the lining, creating one front piece by folding on the seam and trying to hide the darts etc with some lace..hmmm! We might try a toile of this today!

Replies

  1. sewchris703 | | #1

    The reason why you are having trouble is that all the fullness is at the center seam.  There is none at the side seams.  To convert your existing pattern, you need to add fullness at one of the side seams to duplicate the Maggie Suttaro gown.  That's why there is a center front seam on your pattern, so you can gather/pleat all the fullness there.  Try adding the same amount of fullness at one of the side seams and decrease the amount of fullness at the center front.  Then cut the pattern piece out as one piece since now the bodice front is assymetrical.

    Chris

    1. Hels | | #2

      Thankyou so much for your quick reply. I think I understand. When the 2 front pattern pieces are put together flat on a table they don't quite join in a straight line so I think we have to account for this slight curve somewhere else too! (perhaps, like you say for the gathers, at the sides too). I uploaded a pic of what we have so far in case anyone is interested - in very cheap practice material and a bit unfinished (needs taking in in places) but the basics are there! We actually concentrated on the skirt on sunday - took a lot of material as we had to add 5 inches onto the pattern. Unfortunately that means I have to have 4 seams in the skirt instead of 2 - the circles of fabric are wider than the width of the real fabric. Good job I'm not going for a huge princess skirt! I'll have a go at what you suggest soon - I'm addicted now - wish I didn't have to work full time too!

      1. sewchris703 | | #3

        I have no idea why your post showed up 2 weeks late as new.

        Sorry about answering late.  Your new post didn't show up as new and I missed it.  I had another thought.  Can you just take a large piece of the fashion fabric and drape and pin in place while on a dress form or you?  Then it would easy to remove the excess after hand basting the folds in place and marking where the seams should go.

        Chris

        1. Hels | | #4

          Thanks, I only just saw you replied too! I managed to find a pattern maker at a very reasonable rate who has been a life saver. It was much easier to put the folds into the pattern when it is flat. She broke down the front and back into 3 separate pieces each which made it easier to handle. It's taken a few goes but I'm really happy with it now. Going to cut into the proper material today - fingers crossed! I'll upload a couple of more pics soon to explain in case others have the same problem! 

        2. Hels | | #5

          Thanks, I only just saw you replied too! I managed to find a pattern maker at a very reasonable rate who has been a life saver. It was much easier to put the folds into the pattern when it is flat. She broke down the front and back into 3 separate pieces each which made it easier to handle. It's taken a few goes but I'm really happy with it now. Going to cut into the proper material today - fingers crossed! I'll upload a couple of more pics soon to explain in case others have the same problem! 

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