adjusting crotch depth
When making up pants, I always need to shorten the crotch depth. If I simply fold up the pattern at the “shorten here” marks, I lose the necessary back waist to front waist crotch length. Do I reduce the depth and increase length at the crotch point on front and/or back? Will this technique add bulk at the crotch/leg seams? I look forward to some fitting advice. Thanks. Linda.
<< Do I reduce the depth and increase length at the crotch point on front and/or back? Will this technique add bulk at the crotch/leg seams? >>
Yes. Think of fitting this part of the body as tho' it were the letter 'U'. If you break it apart like this: l_l where the 'l' represent the crotch depth, how far below the waist is the crotch curve? The '_' would represent the thickness of your body , how far apart are your center front and center back seams. Looking at your body from the side, your crotch shape could be as above, or it could be l__l, or even '-' .
The trick to avoiding extra bulk at the crotch/leg seam when addding to the crotch length is to figure out whether the extra needs to be added to the front or the back or some to both.
Something I have done that helps is to compare the crotch curve on my best fitting pants to my pattern. I turn the pants inside out and put one leg inside another; exposing the center front and back seams, their shape and length. Laying my pattern over the pants or making a template allows me to compare and adjust. I made a good fitting pair that I am happy with. Hope you understand this explanation. It's difficult for me to describe.
That's a good idea. I do the turning by reaching down one pant leg, grabbing the hem of both legs and pulling both back up. So now one leg is inside the other and the crotch seam is very available for measuring or comparing to a pattern piece. rjf
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