I was wondering if anyone has ideas on how to adjust the cap for a set-in sleeve. I have a jacket pattern that fits well but it has set-in sleeves where the cap is gathered alot. I want to eliminat the gathers and have a smoth shoulder cap. I want the use this pattern for a blazer, not a dress jacket. Can anyone help me?
how much difference is there between the arm hole measurement and the actually sleeve measurement and what are you make the jacket out of ?. The reason I ask this is that it may be possible for you to ease out the gathers with steam if its made out of wool or linen. That is how its done in tailoring and you may not need to alter the cap at all.
I have made this pattern out of cordury and denim. I would like to make it out of cordury again and a fabric that looks like linen. I am sure that I would not beable to iron out the gathers. Oh, I lined one of the jackets with flannel too.
If the difference is not too much you can stitch inside the stitching line as the length from notch to notch is smaller here than on the stitching line . You will have watch though as you might end up with a droopy sleeve but you can fix this by taking out a horizontal fold across the cap . Use lots of pins when you are doig the esing and usetwo rows of gathering threads and then "feel" your way with the easing. I would definitely make a few practise sleeves and fiddle until you get the right method.
Measure the armhole of the jacket pattern (on the sewing line) from front notch to back notches, now measure the sleeve the same area (notch to notches) also on the sewing line. The sleeve needs to be 1 1/2 to 2 inches longer than the armhole opening, this will be eased in not gathered. you need this amount of ease to fit over the ball of the shoulder, now, look at the sleeve cap, is it very wide? can you take a verticle pie shape wedge out of the center top to make the sleeve head the right length? is the sleeve head very tall? you would take a horizontal fold above the notches to shorten this to the right length. do you have another sleeve that you like the way it fits? you could copy the top of the sleeve head?
remember it MUST have some ease 1 1/2 to 2 inches, and probably closer to 2 inches to fit over the shoulder head, Corderoy is hard to ease but not impossible
Thank you fery much for the instructions. I had no idea on how to do this. I had thought of using a sleeve from a different pattern, but wasn't sure how to go about it. Thanks again.
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