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Altering commercial patterns for a vinta

mem1 | Posted in General Discussion on

I feel a bit of a dill asking this but well I guess this is fairly anonymous so here goes.

I would like to use patterns which I already have and which fit me well but add different style lines . I understand the basics of dart manipulation in a pattern block but can I do this on a commercial pattern? If the style changes Iwant to carry out are independent of existing darts, can I just slash the pattern or a copy of it, and add seam allowances and sew it up again perhaps using my dressmaking form as a fine tune for fit?

The questions have been brought on by looking at wonderful tailored jackets from the 60s and 50s which dont fit me but have wonderful design details . I would love to be able to just use the patterns which I have which might have the same collar treatment but not the style lines I would like to be able to emulate . I would appreciate some insights into doing this  .

Replies

  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    Your instincts are on target :-) Anything you can do on/to a basic block you can do to a commercial pattern. Just don't forget about your seam allowances. You may want to make a copy of the pattern in question (to have on hand for other designs or even "just in case") and mark the seam allowances directly on it so there is no confusion. Making a muslin is also a good idea if you have any questions about how the finished garment will look or fit.

    Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

    1. Scooter1 | | #2

      Remember that If you ever plan to rotate a dart on a commercial pattern, you have to extend the dart to the bust point before you rotate. I love some of the features on the older styles too. I especially love the suits from the 40s and 50s. I buy old sewing books for ideas.

      1. mem1 | | #3

        So do you mean that I extend say a side bust dart in to the bust point by narrowing the width of the dart at the side seam and extendingn the two legs of the dart until they cross at the bust point?and then rotate it and then add in the new design lines taking the new dart postions into account when shaping those new design lines?

        Then I cut up the pattern  and make a new one with seam allowances and make a muslin to check that it is all going to work?

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