The triple-fold waistband for light and medium weight fabrics is actually a torn project (unless, of course, the fashion fabric must be cut rather than torn).  In any event, it is simply measured and cut with the length of the waistband following lengthwise grain, the strongest of the grains.  I frequently cut or tear my waistbands to include the selvage edge and sew it into the waistline seam of the garment for added strength and stability.

The primary advantages of the triple-fold waistband are that, one, the waistband is self-interfaced, and, two, it’s a quick and efficient way of completing the waistband since no paper pattern is required.

The primary teaching in the triple-fold waistband is creating your master waistband pattern.  Stabilized seam binding (usually made of highly stabilized rayon) is used to create your master waistband pattern in the instructions, but any stable fabric will suffice.  (Twill tape is not recommended.)  Follow the instructions for the “waistline tape – woven fabrics” section of the attached instructions (uploaded in .pdf/Adobe format).

When transferring markings from the waistline tape to the waistband, work with the wrong side of the waistband up, the cut edge away from you, and apply markings on the wrong side of the waistband at the cut edge.

To use the waistline tape, I will provide the following example.  Let’s say the opening of the garment is at the left side seam (where, say, a lapped application zipper will be applied).  Transfer the markings from your waistline tape onto the garment in this easy sequence:  Lay the waistband face up on the cutting unit as instructed in the previous paragraph.  Leaving a “tail” on the waistband at each end (for finishing the waistband after it has been applied to the garment), pick up the waistline tape at the left SS marking and place it on top of the waistband approximately 3 inches from the left-hand side cut edge.  Transfer markings for SS, CF, SS and CB to waistband.  Place pin at CB of tape onto waistband on the cutting unit.  Pick up tape and bring it up and over the pin, bringing SS marking to the right of the pin, then transfer final SS marking to waistband.  You should have approximately 3 inches of waistband left over.

This is one of those things that’s just a lot easier to demonstrate than to explain or draw.  If you could see it, you’d see just how easy it is.  I’ve tried to draw this out for you, but I don’t know how successful I’ve been.  This method assures that each of the four quarters of the waistband has exactly the proper amount of length to key to the garment waistline, as there is more waistband at the front of the garment than at the back.  (The amount you move the SS marking towards CB on the master waistline tape is determined by how much tummy you have.)

You can actually make a master waistline tape for yourself for openings at any location: one for left side seam opening, one for center front opening, one for center back opening, etc.  I keep mine pinned to a bulletin board in my sewing studio and just grab the one I need.

Hope my diagrams make sense.  I’m sure you will have some questions for me, though, as I’m discovering just how quick everyone is to spot a problem!

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Edited 9/13/2007 8:36 pm ET by DonnaKaye

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Edited 9/13/2007 8:38 pm ET by DonnaKaye

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Edited 9/13/2007 8:38 pm ET by DonnaKaye