Replies

1. 
   Liz_Maynard | Oct 16, 2001 03:26pm | #1

   *
   I've not seen the princess seams that ends in the neckline! I've fit a lot of "busty" girls and prefer the princess seams, usually ending in the armhole. The side front is increased at bust point and then the center front is lengthened at bust point (to give more length to cover full bust). Works like a charm!

1. 
   Liz_Maynard | Oct 16, 2001 03:28pm | #2

   *Marie, I forgot to mention--Be sure to measure the distance between your two bust points and adjust patttern if needed. Sometimes you need to add width in center to make the seamline fall directly over nipple line as it's supposed to.

1. 
   Marie_Clown | Oct 17, 2001 03:11pm | #3

   *Thanks so much for the advice. I need a little clarification on the pattern changes. Does "side front is increased at bust points" mean width or in length, or both? Also, any pattern suggestions would be highly appreciated. I have one McCalls, but it is a blouse top and I am worried that it won't fit my dropped waist skirt when I try to meld patterns. I am doing a toile, so I plan to work out the kinks there. Thanks again.

1. 
   Liz_Maynard | Oct 18, 2001 08:09pm | #4

   *The bust point is enlarged at the curved area of the side front--the seam that joins to the center front. Draw a line side to side thru the bust point (keep line at right angle to the grain line), then straight out from that line you add 1/2" and blend into the seam line above and below bust point. This gives you more space from the side seam to the tip of your bust. You also add the same 1/2" to the center front length at the bust point to give more length to go around the fuller bust. You may still have to add at the side seams too.

1. 
   karen_morris_ | Oct 24, 2001 09:18am | #5

   *Marie, when you say the princess seam runs up to the neckline, do you mean the one that runs up to the shoulder? I like this style of princess seam a bit better than the one that curves into the armhole. I haven't fit any busty brides, but I wonder whether the same fitting adjustments can be made to this straighter style?Threads magazine has had some very good Fitting departments about fitting the fuller bust. You may find them helpful--try no. 57, pp. 22,24,26; no. 62, pp. 20,22. (The first focuses on princess seams).