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Chanel Jacket Question

Bernie1 | Posted in General Discussion on

I know we had a thread going here on Chanel jackets but I can’t locate it anymore. I am planning on making several using some Burda patterns and wondered if there is a source that gives details on construction, such as whether they should be underlined (since most of the fabric is fairly loose weave), some couture construction details and so forth. I haven’t come across anything in my sewing library. Thanks.


  1. Merryll | | #1

    Bernie, if you click on the ALL MESSAGES button at the bottom, it will open the Chanel thread you are seeking.  It's under the heading, General Sewing Information, and was last updated 3/24.

    In case you don't want to hunt, I have several resources.  The first is Claire Shaeffer's book Couture sewing Techniques, published by Taunton.  I highly recommend it.  She refers to Chanel often, but jacket tips begin on page 182. Shaeffer discusses quilting the lining, adding a chain weight and trims.

    Sandra Betzina discusses making a Chanel jacket in her book, Power Sewing Step-By-Step, pages 167, 168, also published by Taunton (2000).

    Sheaffer does the more authentic overview, as you might imagine. You can tell she spent time in their workrooms when she was in Europe researching her book. Of course, Threads also has touched on Chanel jackets, but I don't have their index at my fingertips.

    I have several other resources, less detailed, which include a Town & Country article, "The Chanel Suit," by Judith Warner from two years ago (not really directed to home sewers), and an informative soft-cover book, Chanel, The Couturiere At Work, by Amy De La Haye and Shelly Tobin, The Overlook Press, 1994. The latter is more a biography of her life but includes great insight about the whys of her soft construction.

    The hallmark of Chanel jackets, besides trim, is the lack of inner structure and invisibly quilting the lining to the outer fabric. Frankly, I've always puzzled about how to do this effectively when working with today's Chanel open-weave fabric. The tighter-weave fabric she used when she began the jackets is more sweater-like, and lends itself well to invisible quilting.


    Edited 3/26/2004 9:04 pm ET by Merryll

    1. Bernie1 | | #2

      Wow, thanks, Merryll. I have been thinking of picking up Claire Schaeffer's book anyway so I will start with that.

    2. SewNancy | | #3

      Someone mentioned that the linings of the current jackets are cut on bias and that it makes it more comfortable.  Any suggestions on chnages needed to cut lining out bias?


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