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Darts and Points

KrissB | Posted in Fitting on


I am sewing a bridesmaid dress for a young woman with an EE cup in bra size.  I have redrafted the pattern several times, spreading it both vertically and horizontally to enlarge the cup size and I still can’t get the muslin to fit properly.  The dress now fits, but the dart point won’t sit flat over the breast, but comes to a very visible point.  Can anyone offer a suggestion about correcting this problem?

Thanks in advance for anticipated assistance. 


  1. MegVT | | #1

    I'm sure that there are lots of seamstresses who will respond, but I'll say that many of the darted garments I've worn are constructed with the point of the dart ending before the point of the bust.  Would this work for your project?  Would you be able to split the dart into two or three smaller darts to accomplish the same amount of shaping?

    Best, Meg

    1. KrissB | | #2

      Hi Meg, thanks for the reply.  I agree that I need to shorten the length of the dart back to below the bust point, but then I can't get the cup to fit properly -- it is a halter type bodice.

      I was wondering about splitting the dart into two smaller darts, especially after I read the previous discussion in this subject matter about changing darts and the "rocket bra" effect and discovered that this problem will not go away with a dart base of more than 3".  I am going to play around with darts on a few scraps and see what I can come up with. 

      Thanks again, and I look forward to any further input.

      Best regards, Kriss 

      1. suesew | | #3

        If the dart is c oming up from under the bust line, is there any chance that you can continue sewing on a tiny fold of the fabric and make it look like it is a princess line.? A princess line is often a good choice for large busted women because it gives you more dart options from above and below and in the shape of the side bust piece. Sue

      2. mem1 | | #4

        How about turning the bodice into a princess line and then shaping it in under the breast

        1. KrissB | | #5

          Dear mem and suesew, thanks for your suggestions.  I did indeed decide to do the option with two smaller darts, as it looks okay that way.  The princess line idea might have worked too, as the skirt is several panels with godets, but as the top is a halter typed I decided that the darts will work better.  But thanks, and I will keep in mind about princess seams if I ever make another dress for this young woman.  Yours in sewing up a storm, Kriss

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