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Help In seam pocket in a flat feld seam

chubello | Posted in General Discussion on

Hi – need help with putting an in seam side pocket in a flat fell seam. I know I had instructions for doing this from some where on the web – I suspect this forum – but now can’t find them.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Edited 11/28/2007 6:00 pm by chubello


  1. chubello | | #1

    Thanks to an old post by Gigi Louis at Pattern Review I came up with this method:

    Lay the front pocket piece into position on the garment front, right sides together.

    Starting at the beginning of the opening, stitch in from the side an amount equal to the seam allowance (5/8 of an inch), then stitch down to the end of the opening and back out to the side. Sort of an open rectangle.

    Trim and clip to the corners. Turn inside, press and top stitch.

    Lay the other pocket piece over the front pocket piece, right sides together. Stitch all around the pocket pieces. Finish raw edges. You now have a completed pocket on the front.

    To proceed with the side seam, place the front and back pieces together, wrong sides together. Stitch seam being careful not to catch pocket edge. Proceed to press, trim and “flat fell” seam.

    Thought I would post it for any one else who was looking.

    1. User avater
      CostumerVal | | #2

      Thanks so much for the advise.  I've done a few period shirts for a historical group and they have alot of triangle gussets, and are traditionally hand sewn with flat felled seams.  It's been a long challenge getting those gussets into a flat felled side seam.  I did a faux flat fell by sewing the gusset in first, but then I clipped seam allowance and proceded with trimming, rolling, and topstitching on the shirt.  Then I rolled the gusset seam allowance over the shirt s.a. to continue the faux fell to the hem and cover the clipped  shirt s.a.   The only problem I can see with putting the s.a. on the right side, would be that I have gussets at both the armpit and the hem slit.  so I think I would have to clip the shirt at the armpit to get the s.a. to outside anyway.  I'll think about it for awhile.   Your method would work great on a pair of period breeches, so I'll write it down.

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