I need to use a roll hem for chiffon sleeves. Roll hemming is not my strong suit in the first place, and in this case, I’m having trouble keeping the fabric in the “curling” part of the hem foot. If this were a straight piece, it would be easier, but it curves. Any advice or tricks you could pass along? Thanks!
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Replies
Take a scrap of the fabric you are using and starch one edge to represent the hem and see if it will feed through the foot better than the untreated fabric. Of course, the starch would be dry before stitching.
Hi:
Spraying the edge of the chiffon is the first step. Also, you need to keep holding the chiffon a little to the left of the as it feeds into the foot. This encourages it to roll into the foot as enough chiffon is available. As suggested, try this on a scrap of chiffon to get the feel for the correct place to hold it.
Thanks! I had wondered if the starch would work. I tried Fray Check and it made the edge look way too stiff. Would it be a problem to not wash the fabric afterward? By trial and error on my practice runs, I discovered the idea of holding the fabric to the left -- it also helped with the curve. Thanks again.
Spray starch is the answer I have found for slippery narrow hems. You can spray and press (do not slide the iron) 3 or 4 times or until it is very stiff. Use a towel roll in the sleeve and you will not have pressed-in creases. Also, I think it is Aileen's that makes a glue-like product that stiffens anything and it washes out with water. God bless you. Galey
Thanks! Some of the fabric that I will be using in this project cannot be washed ... I'm wondering if it would be a problem to use a light spray of starch, then leave it in.
A light touch of spray starch is no problem even if the item isn't washed afterwards. The starch isn't noticable and doesn't affect the wear whatsoever.I have a number of 2 metre long chiffon scarves that I have made in this manner and not worried about washing out the spray starch. By the way, I was taught this technique in a class and the instructor also said not to worry about washing out the starch.
Enjoy your sewing,
Elaine
Hi Mom,
Best trick I learned for doing rolled hems is to use fusible thread. You put the fusible thread in the bobbin, sew a line of stay stitching with the good side up, then press. The fusible thread bonds the edge. You can then trim the seam allowance and roll the edge. It does not fray.
I've had a lot of trouble with rolled hems until I tried this technique. Using this thread I now have no fear of doing scalloped edges, bias hems, anything you want for the smallest possible rolled hem. I've even done some designs for fashion dolls where I only fused the edge and did not roll for a second layer. I was doing the swirly skirt from the 70s and wanted the softest possible hem for this small scale and it worked a treat.
I'm new to the Threads forums so I don't know if I can post a link for an online resource but if you Google "Fusible Thread," you'll find it easily enough.
Wow, that sounds very useful! I'll do a trial run with it, if I can find it locally. Thanks very much!
The fusible thread technique will NOT help you if you are using roll hem foot that folds the cloth for you.
Becky
Welcome to the board, Don. Thank you for that wonderful tip. I am going to print it off and put it in my notebook.
When doing the scalloped hems, do you use a preprogrammed scallop stitch or satin scallop or? I love the fusible thread too. Haven't figured out how to use it for scalloped hems though.
I got mine at the Husq/Viking dealer, but I think most of the dealers have it. If not, you can order it from YLI, don't know who else might make it.
Mary,We might be talking about two different things. I believe some sewing machines have a scalloping stitch. I am talking about a hem that is not straight but made up of a series of curved shapes like you find in the Swirly Skirts of the 1970s. You can see what I am talking about on the following web page:http://patterns-for-fashion-dolls.deofsf.com/Period/Swirly-Skirt/I just use a straight stitch. Actually now that I've posted one URL, I'll try another. An online source for fusible thread:http://www.ericas.com/sewing/threads/fusible.htmBest,
Don McCunn
Thanks for clarifying which type of scallop.
Oh, those patterns are so cool! I graduated high school at 17, in 1970 so can truly relate to the "far out" styles we wore. I actually had a vest and headband very similar to the doll's with a matching suede purse with fringe to the ground! Lots of peasant blouses and very patched/embroidered jeans, long dresses and skirts. I made "guru" type shirts with hand embroidery for friends in a band.
You did a great job creating the patterns. Good for you! Congratulations and I hope you are very successful.
Mary,Actually those are a 1/4 scale reduction of the actual pattern shape from the 70s. If you ever wanted to revisit your past :-) you could expand them by 400% and you'd have an authentic "historic" pattern. Best,
Don McCunn
Thanks Don,
I wondered about that.
I have just joined your Yahoo group "how to make sewing patterns" and I think it is great!!!
Keep up the wonderful work.
CherryPops (sydney australia)
I've done narrow chiffon hems both ways... with the narrow hem foot and using the stitch technique recommended by one of your other responders. I suggest skipping the special hem foot. Use the touch of spray starch as suggested.
1) Set your machine for a straight stitch and stitch around the hem edge about 1/4" below where you want the hem to end up.
2) Now using the stitch line carefully press the hem allowance up... the thread is going to be "just" above the fold line on the hem side.
3) Carefully stitch just above the fold
4) Very carefully trim your hem allowance closely to the stitch line. I aim for 1/8-1/16" Yes, you can do this...practice on a remnant to get your technique down :)
5) Turn up your hem one more time it should be narrow say 1/8" +/-
6) Stitch one more time to anchor your beautiful narrow hem.
I love this technique because it makes such nice hems even when dealing with wiggly chiffon, bias or circular fabrics.
Good luck with your project.
Alice
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