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hemming a fleece jacket

ldm55 | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi –

Can anyone tell me whether interfacing or hair canvas should be inserted in the hem of a loosely fitting fleece car length jacket that I’m making.  I don’t want the hem to be too stiff.  If I use interfacing, what type and what’s the recommended way to insert it or attach it to the hem?  Thanks for any help.


  1. Gloriasews | | #1

    I haven't seen any fleece jackets with an interfaced hem.  Is your jacket lined?  Usually, the hem is folded up 1/2 - 1", then sewn (either zigzag or stretch stitch or serged - can also be sewn with a double needle), as the fleece is usually stretchy width-wise.  It also depends upon whether the jacket is casual or not - some have been finished with a strip of jersey-type fabric (if the fleece isn't too heavy) or contrasting fleece (like a bias strip), as most fleece garments are washable, so you would have to consider whether your interfacing is washable, too.  What do you think?


    1. ldm55 | | #2

      Hi Gloria -

      Thanks for your suggestions.  It is a lined jacket, McCalls 2473, loose fitting, casual with contrasting shawl collar and cuffs.  I want to prevent stretching as I hem.  Maybe a stabilizer, and a lot of pins would help.  I guess I'll skip the interfacing.  I don't want to bind the edge, or have visible stitching along the outside at the hem.  I wasn't going to join the lining to the jacket at the hem, just connect them with a thread chain or loose tacks.  Thanks again.

       - Lisa

      1. MaryinColorado | | #3

        I have McCalls M4975 (Palmer/Pletsch coat for fleece or faux fur.  It says to turn up the hem 1 5/8ths, press, Baste close to the fold, slip stitch it to the lining which is already turned under.  (The diagram shows a "pleat" created in the lining near the front with this method for wearing ease). 

        I have hemmed fleece coats with a long stitch length of matching thread, if the pile is deep enough, it sinks in and doesn't show if you brush it up a bit.

        1. ldm55 | | #4

          Hi Mary -

          Thanks for the info.  It helps. - Lisa

        2. ldm55 | | #5

          I forgot to ask - Is that a long stitch length straight stitch?

          1. MaryinColorado | | #6

            I did use a long straight stitch but you could try a zig zag too.  It just disappeared into the nap.  Glad this helped.  It seems like the main problem with these fabrics is avoiding bulk in the seams and hems.  I have thought of using bias seam binding or even seams great in the hems for a white fleece one I plan to make this year. Mary

          2. ldm55 | | #9

            I love the look of bound edges, but since I didn't bind edges elsewhere on the jacket, it would probably look odd only on the hem.  I'll have to make something else where I can embellish more.  Here's a photo of the project in process. 

          3. MaryinColorado | | #11

            It looks great!  The hem stitches wont show on this jacket fabric.  Look what a great job you've already done!  A few more stitches and you can move on to the next project!  You go girl!

          4. ldm55 | | #13

            Thanks for the "cyber" pat on the back.  Always welcome.  Boy, you're all a great bunch of people.  I haven't been in discussion groups online before on any website.  This is so helpful.  Sorry for gushing.  Back to the jacket, I like how it's turning out.  I only wish I used a better quality of fleece.  It definitely isn't Malden Mills and it probably will pill before long.  I've finally resolved not to be lured by sale prices or color/pattern if the quality isn't up to snuff.  After all those hours on the project, I want it to last a while.  Too late, too smart?

          5. MaryinColorado | | #14

            I know what you mean, been there, done that, burned the t shirt!  But you will enjoy wearing this cute coat and it will be snugly warm!  You can always make it again of a different fabric and it will be easier the second time around!

          6. Gloriasews | | #15

            Go ahead & gush, Mary - we are a great bunch of people!  We learn something every day on these threads & meet wonderful, caring people, as well - it's just getting harder to limit my computer time now, as I follow many of the threads, too.  I'm like you, I haven't become involved in any other website blog, either, & yet I spend sometimes hours on the computer, which is taking time away from my sewing - no happy medium, I guess, as both are enjoyable.

          7. MaryinColorado | | #16

            Maybe I should put my timer by the computer so I learn to limit all the time I spend online.  I straightened up the studio today so am ready to get busy with my next project. 

          8. Gloriasews | | #17

            Guess I'd better get myself another timer, too - another great idea, Mary!  The days fly by so quickly that it's really hard to allot enough time for everything that I'd like to do, due to chores that I have to do.  The computer really cuts into my time every day.

      2. Gloriasews | | #10

        2busy2cook gave you the stitch sizes - you may want/need to use your walking foot on this if the fleece is quite moveable, so that you don't get a lot of stretch & ripples going.  With your printed fleece, as Mary said, it won't show on the fleece at all & save more time than doing it by hand.  Good luck!


        1. ldm55 | | #12

          Thanks.  I was thinking walking foot and maybe Tear Easy stabilizer (one of my best friends) to prevent stretching.

  2. tobusy2cook | | #7

    When I made a fleece jacket I turned up the hem used a double needle 4mm and stitch length at 3.  Looks very nice and hangs well.  Jennifer

    1. ldm55 | | #8

      Thanks.  I'll experiment with that.

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