Hi –
Can anyone tell me whether interfacing or hair canvas should be inserted in the hem of a loosely fitting fleece car length jacket that I’m making. I don’t want the hem to be too stiff. If I use interfacing, what type and what’s the recommended way to insert it or attach it to the hem? Thanks for any help.
Replies
I haven't seen any fleece jackets with an interfaced hem. Is your jacket lined? Usually, the hem is folded up 1/2 - 1", then sewn (either zigzag or stretch stitch or serged - can also be sewn with a double needle), as the fleece is usually stretchy width-wise. It also depends upon whether the jacket is casual or not - some have been finished with a strip of jersey-type fabric (if the fleece isn't too heavy) or contrasting fleece (like a bias strip), as most fleece garments are washable, so you would have to consider whether your interfacing is washable, too. What do you think?
Gloria
Hi Gloria -
Thanks for your suggestions. It is a lined jacket, McCalls 2473, loose fitting, casual with contrasting shawl collar and cuffs. I want to prevent stretching as I hem. Maybe a stabilizer, and a lot of pins would help. I guess I'll skip the interfacing. I don't want to bind the edge, or have visible stitching along the outside at the hem. I wasn't going to join the lining to the jacket at the hem, just connect them with a thread chain or loose tacks. Thanks again.
- Lisa
I have McCalls M4975 (Palmer/Pletsch coat for fleece or faux fur. It says to turn up the hem 1 5/8ths, press, Baste close to the fold, slip stitch it to the lining which is already turned under. (The diagram shows a "pleat" created in the lining near the front with this method for wearing ease).
I have hemmed fleece coats with a long stitch length of matching thread, if the pile is deep enough, it sinks in and doesn't show if you brush it up a bit.
Hi Mary -
Thanks for the info. It helps. - Lisa
I forgot to ask - Is that a long stitch length straight stitch?
I did use a long straight stitch but you could try a zig zag too. It just disappeared into the nap. Glad this helped. It seems like the main problem with these fabrics is avoiding bulk in the seams and hems. I have thought of using bias seam binding or even seams great in the hems for a white fleece one I plan to make this year. Mary
I love the look of bound edges, but since I didn't bind edges elsewhere on the jacket, it would probably look odd only on the hem. I'll have to make something else where I can embellish more. Here's a photo of the project in process.
It looks great! The hem stitches wont show on this jacket fabric. Look what a great job you've already done! A few more stitches and you can move on to the next project! You go girl!
Thanks for the "cyber" pat on the back. Always welcome. Boy, you're all a great bunch of people. I haven't been in discussion groups online before on any website. This is so helpful. Sorry for gushing. Back to the jacket, I like how it's turning out. I only wish I used a better quality of fleece. It definitely isn't Malden Mills and it probably will pill before long. I've finally resolved not to be lured by sale prices or color/pattern if the quality isn't up to snuff. After all those hours on the project, I want it to last a while. Too late, too smart?
I know what you mean, been there, done that, burned the t shirt! But you will enjoy wearing this cute coat and it will be snugly warm! You can always make it again of a different fabric and it will be easier the second time around!
Go ahead & gush, Mary - we are a great bunch of people! We learn something every day on these threads & meet wonderful, caring people, as well - it's just getting harder to limit my computer time now, as I follow many of the threads, too. I'm like you, I haven't become involved in any other website blog, either, & yet I spend sometimes hours on the computer, which is taking time away from my sewing - no happy medium, I guess, as both are enjoyable.
Maybe I should put my timer by the computer so I learn to limit all the time I spend online. I straightened up the studio today so am ready to get busy with my next project.
Guess I'd better get myself another timer, too - another great idea, Mary! The days fly by so quickly that it's really hard to allot enough time for everything that I'd like to do, due to chores that I have to do. The computer really cuts into my time every day.
2busy2cook gave you the stitch sizes - you may want/need to use your walking foot on this if the fleece is quite moveable, so that you don't get a lot of stretch & ripples going. With your printed fleece, as Mary said, it won't show on the fleece at all & save more time than doing it by hand. Good luck!
Gloria
Thanks. I was thinking walking foot and maybe Tear Easy stabilizer (one of my best friends) to prevent stretching.
When I made a fleece jacket I turned up the hem used a double needle 4mm and stitch length at 3. Looks very nice and hangs well. Jennifer
Thanks. I'll experiment with that.
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