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I have a fitting problem…

becca | Posted in Fitting on

Hi all – I am an  experienced sewer, but I am working on a blouse that is giving me fits.  It is a camp style shirt, but the sleeve is one with the front and back, so one seam from the collar to the sleeve hem.  The problem is that the shirt came out too large ( a nice surprise, but…)  It falls free from my shoulder down.  The bottom is at least 4 inches longer at the sides than the front and back.  It looks like to even it, I will have to cut it on a slant!  I know that is wrong – I wonder if taking it in at the shoulder will help?  Does anyone have any ideas/ help/ cheer??? thanks!


  1. mem1 | | #1

    Are you sure this isnt a design featuire and what is the pattern.

    1. becca | | #2

      I'm pretty sure it is not a design feature - the picture on the front of the envelope shows the shirt with a straight hem.  I am wondering if because it came out too large and the way the underarm seam is all one that is making it hang so uneven.  Also, I  used french seams - don't know if that would have anything to do with it.  The fabric is silk, and I used the fusible tricot interfacing on the front lapel/facing and collar... I am at a loss.  I pinned the shoulder seams up to take them up an inch or so, and that helped.... also pinned in a shoulder pad, which helped - but the bottom is still too 'off' for me to just jump in and level it knowing it will be off grain.  Any insight will be appreciated!  Thanks

      1. SewTruTerry | | #3

        You say that the picture on the front of the envelope does not show that but what does the pattern pieces indicate. Unless the picture on the envelope is a photo then the drawing is an artist rendering of the garment.  Could you let us know what pattern and company you are using it may help us give you better directions?

        1. becca | | #4

          HI - Sure! I will get the pattern number and info when i get home tonight and post it. thanks

          1. becca | | #5

            HI again - the pattern I used is Butterick 4950. I have used the cap sleeve shell many times with no problems, but this is the first time using the button down shirt. Thanks for any help!

          2. SewTruTerry | | #6

            Rebecca I just looked at the pattern information that you sent and I think I can tell you a couple of things that led to this problem.  I bet you used a Challis material or other somewhat loosely woven material that has a lot of drape to it.  Also I bet you sewed against the grain of the material in other words you sewed from the sleeve hem to the bottom hem on both sides.  By doing this you sewed against the grain of the fabric which by the look of the pattern is slightly on the bias. You could fix this by simply by hemming so all is even around the bottom or you could since you say that the top came out larger than needed unstitch and cut out using a smaller size and then closely controlling the bias edges. 

          3. becca | | #7

            Terry, thank you so much for the insight! I am making the blouse from silk, and it is tightly woven, BUT, I had to fold the fabric to accomodate the one piece sleeve and section and might have it off grain slightly...and, i can certainly re-cut and sew the sides, from the bottom to the top. thanks for responding, I will post the results :-)

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