Replies

1. 
   suesew | Dec 31, 2007 05:10am | #1

   I have done this successfully. Open the sleeve seam from the shoulder, down along the back to the underarm seam You may also need to open the shoulder seam a little just to handle it all. You will now have the back free from the sleeve. Use this sleeve edge of this back piece to create a pattern for the sleeve edge of the insert. Now cut your insert - I would cut the side to match the edge of the back and then cut the other side straight so you have a piece about 6" wide at the shoulder . Cut it a couple of inches longer than the depth of the armhole. Hope I'm making sense. Now sew the pleat fabric to the garment sleeve. Now you can smooth it all out and fold the pleat into place and fiddle with it to figure out how to sew that straight edge to the garment back. You may have to cut the straight edge to match any curve in the sleeve back. Sew that seam from the inside and sew the shoulder seam back together if you have taken it apart at all. Press the pleat in place and resew the underarm of the sleeve to the back until it gets to where you want the pleat to open.
   You will have to be able to get inside if there is a lining. I would open up a lining center back or something similar so you have good and easy access - just that little slit in the sleeve would not be very helpful.
   Happy sewing and happy new year. Sue

1. 
   mvb | Dec 31, 2007 05:32am | #2

   Thanks Sue. That helps. Going in through the center back seam makes sense. This coat does have a lining. Do I have to do the same for the lining or will the answer be obvious when I start to do this?

1. 
   suesew | Dec 31, 2007 10:12pm | #3

   Yes, you will have to do the same to the lining - or if the lining has a lot of give in the center back it may give enough - but probably not.