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Inserting godets or volant ruffle

Pattijane | Posted in General Discussion on

I am working on a Marfy pattern 1502. It is a beautiful skirt with godets at the bottom. Of course Marfy has no directions and I can’t figure out how they go together. They are not normal triangle shaped, they have a scalloped top and a round bottom. Any ideas?


  1. Josefly | | #1

    I noticed you haven't had an answer yet to your question. I couldn't find your pattern on the Vogue pattern web site or at marfy.com. Is this a pattern from the Marfy catalog - and if so, is there a place online where it can be viewed? I'd like to see the photo or line-drawing of those scallop-topped godets.

    Are the godets sewn into full-length seam allowances between panels of fabric which make up the skirt, or are they inserted into slits cut into the panels from the bottom?

    By the way, when I googled "volant ruffle" this site came up:


    The question addressed was "Do you speak Marfy?" Maybe this site would helpful to you; I didn't spend much time there to find out.

    Edited 10/22/2008 2:34 pm ET by Josefly

  2. User avater
    ShineOn | | #2

    This type of godet can be inserted into a seam line or into a slash-cut, which I am assuming is on the bottom of the skirt or dress, Carefully measure along the top scalloped edge from outside to  middle point. Measure up this amount on seamline or make slash this length  - less your seam allowance- keep it narrow (1/4" is good) pin center point of scallop to this mark and carefully pin the curve of the scallop to the straight of the cut edge. Sew from the point down on both sides, you will get the best results if you keep the godet side down against the feeddogs when sewing both sides. Take your time and use a medium small stitch length. This type of godet will give a beautiful drape at hemline as it has more fabric in it than a standard godet. Hope this helps you out

    Edited 10/23/2008 7:20 pm ET by ShineOn

    1. KharminJ | | #3

      This sounds like a beautiful detail - and I can "almost" see it! Do you know of any illustrations that you could link or attach?

      Thanks for sharing your knowledge - that's what we're all here for!

      Bright Blessings! Kharmin

      1. User avater
        ShineOn | | #4

        Sorry I don't have a picture or link to one, I remember reading about this many years ago in a book on old flounces and finishing techniques.   You might try putting togther a sample out of scrap fabric before working on your garment.Good luck ! I am sure it will come out fabulous.

        1. KharminJ | | #5

          Thanks! I wasn't the one who posted originally - not sure if she's been back here lately ...

          I did search for "volant ruffle" on Google, though, and came up with a bunch of Marfy patterns (surprise!)- the illos have given me a better idea, but like you, no F1502!

          McCall Pattern - F9539 - Marfy Dress

          McCall Pattern - F1711 - Marfy Tunic

          McCall Pattern - F1235 - Marfy Skirt

          McCall Pattern - F9931 - Marfy Dress

          Butterick - F1024 - Marfy Skirt

          Most entries for "volent godet" seem to be about some band(!), but here's one photo of a skirt, described as having "volant godet au dos":

          http://i21.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/03/c5/69ac_1.JPGIf it's not viewable anymore, I've also attached it -

          More "non-billable information" I guess - but a fun search anyway!


          1. Josefly | | #6

            From what I've been able to gather, the "volant" flounce or ruffle is simply a circular-shaped, un-gathered ruffle, the curve straightened out and sewn into a straight seam, producing a nice, wavy, feminine-looking flounce. Is this what you understand, too? From looking at the McCall's patterns you listed most of the skirts have this kind of ungathered flounce sewn onto either a straight horizontal seam or a straight slanted (bias) seam. How that would be applicable to a godet, I'm not sure, unless the top of the godet, instead of being the point of a triangle, is a curved line, and then sewn into a straight seam. ( I usually think of a godet as a triangle with a curved bottom.)

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