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Neue Mode jacket lining

SewNancy | Posted in General Discussion on

I am in the process of altering a jacket pattern from Neue Mode, #V23297 for anyone who wants to take a look at it. It is a shoulder princess jacket with a separate lining piece which is not princess but is darted with a vertical dart.
It also has a pleat at front edge of lining perpendicular to the cf. at the bust point. I have never seen this before. I assume this is for ease, but I don’t think that I like this here. Any suggestions on where to put the ease?
Thanks, Nancy


  1. ixs | | #1

    Never heard of the outer material not coinciding with the lining.  How can the two pieces of fabric hang/drape with any consistency?  I'm not into lining very much, however. 

    I was told one time to sew a muslin in the same type of material you would make the garment in.  Maybe this is the time to make both the lining and outer material main pieces and put them together. 

    1. SewNancy | | #4

      I have seen this before, it makes the ling less bulky without the added seam, also with the princess shoulder, there is not alot of room at the shoulder for another seam.

      1. ixs | | #5

        Thanks. Like I said, I don't do linings very much, although I should do more---for the practice and the challenge. Just made me remember: I am on the road, going to Arizona, and I forgot to take the two alteration books I like, for reference.

  2. sewanista | | #2

    The pleat at the CF is probably an unstitched dart that supplies some of the shaping that the vertical dart can't accomodate. (Vertical double ended darts that go below waist level account for waist shaping but not really bust shaping.) If the pattern has pleat lines marked on it, and they taper towards each other, it's a dart. If they are parallel, they are just a pleat and there should be a corresponding pleat on the underarm side. I doubt this is the case. If the pattern has no pleat lines marked, fold the pleat as indicated with the cut edges exactly on top of one another, and see if it tapers to nothing at bust point. You could replace it with ease, or an actual dart, but a pleat is probably easiest. You can't really just get rid of it without affecting the fit.

    1. SewNancy | | #3

      I figured that I couldn't get rid of it, but I tried to transfer it the armskye. I looked in Claire Schaeffer's Couture book and she shows a pleat at the shoulder and an optional one at the arm. Maybe I should just leave it. By the way, they are parallel lines that fold down.

  3. sewingkmulkey | | #6

    Like ixs I think the pattern lining is poor and I would simply cut my lining fabric from the main jacket pattern pieces (minus the front facing piece which would be fashion fabric) adding about an inch pleat (stitching down from the neck for about 3 inches) in the center back.  I line jackets all the time and have only seen such a discrepancy likes yours once before.



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