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Non-Traditional Bust Darts

WandaJ | Posted in General Discussion on
Hello Everyone, I just finished looking at the March ’07 Issue of Burdamode (on-line) and fell in love with a few of the patterns, particularly 104B Jacket in turquoise crepe back satin. I had not here-to-fore, thought of making a jacket out of this material. I have some peach in the stash!!! :->)
When looking at the line drawings I noticed many of the garments, including princess designed garments ( jacket 127, wedding dress and 123 wedding dress and coat [this is very pretty, as well as classic, and could be used for more occasions than a wedding] had a dart which was not what I consider an American type dart.
These darts seemed to go almost directly across the upper bust versus a dart coming from under the armhole and up toward the bust point.
Please tell me about this fitting and shaping technique, as well as, your experiences using this technique.
Thanks in advance for your input.


  1. diday | | #1

    Can you provide links please? Thanks.

    1. WandaJ | | #2

      In your search engine type: burdamode.com

      This should take you to their homepage showing the March '07 edition of burda world of fashion magazine. It's the magazine that has many, many patterns per edition.

      1. HeartFire2 | | #4

        Its just a princess line that is way off to the side so it doesn't provide much bust shaping. They add in the 'side dart' coming from the princess seam to add shaping. I've seen this in a lot of RTW over the last few years

        1. WandaJ | | #5

          Thanks for explaining this dart to me. Is it possible to use this technique when adding a bust dart to a pattern, or is there something about the initial design that allows for its incorporation?

          1. HeartFire2 | | #6

            I guess if you have a pattern that has the princess line so far out to the side, and you need more shape/fitting of the bust then you could add it in, but I think it would be nicer (and easier) to just move the princess line a little towards center front and adjust the side front piece for bust shaping. The whole beauty of the princess line is that you can get wonderful fitting over the bust for any size bust without using pointy darts. I would have to play with this in paper to see how it would work out.

          2. WandaJ | | #7


        2. wlric | | #8

          I have wondered about this type of dart in jackets and coats, too. My question about it has to do with the recent discussion of off graining for coats. Does this dart change the way the coat hangs at the hem? Any thoughts?

          1. HeartFire2 | | #9

            this dart shouldn't have any effect on the grain of the fabric. That has to do with the layout of the pattern piece. Unless I'm missing something in your question.

          2. wlric | | #13

            Thanks, HeartFire2. Sorry for the delay in my response. In trying to figure out what my question really was, I managed to also figure out the answer! Although the length of the garment is shortened a tiny bit by the dart, the actual grain remains straight. You helped me by making me think it through!

      2. SewNancy | | #10

        I have made this dart in the past. YOu do any fba to the princess seam and don't change the size of the short dart. Make sure the apex of the pattern matches yours exactly, drawing a box around the apex and moving it up or down filling in the opening with tissue paper.

  2. liselaure | | #3

    Hello Wanda,

    I got my BWOF issue yesterday, what allowed me to take a look at those patterns. These darts don't go accross the upper bust as they seem. Their dart point is the bust point. What gave you this impression are the princess seams wich have been moved towards the side seam. I never made such a pattern but it has been on my to-do list for long. I dont' think it will be difficult to fit.


    P.S. You can find instructions to draft such a pattern in many patternmaking books.


  3. sewmom5 | | #11

    Hi. I just looked at the picture from Burda. This is actuall not a classic princess syle line. It is a panel syleline, and the dart is located where it is to add shaping. There is usually no side seam in this type of garment,  as the panel on the side combines the side front and side back into one piece.  I looked it up in my textbook to make sure, but I remember doing this for a class. Good luck.

    1. WandaJ | | #12

      Sewmom5, Thanks for the clarification, particularly about the style of this garment.

  4. User avater
    TwilaTee | | #14

    I don't have anything really to add. I've been reading this post, and have been all of a sudden taken with the urge to let you ladies know how much I have learned since joining in on your discussions! Non-Taditional Bust Darts, off graining for coats, I tell you, I am riveted! Wow! you ladies are so talented and well read. I should have probably started a new discussion, but... - thanks. - Twila

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