I recently made a jacket and did padding stitches on the collar. I had never really done this before and followed the directions in Claire Schaffer’s “Couture” book. Unfortunately, although the directions are pretty thorough, the book doesn’t show how it should look on the outside fashion fabric.
When doing padding stitches, are the stitches suppose to show on the outside (back) of the undercollar or only pick up threads so that they don’t show? It seems that they should show, or the undercollar wouldn’t be very padded and it would also be difficult to achieve the shaping that is supposed to happen. My padding stitches showed on the undercollar. That’s the only way I could achieve the shaping. The client was my aunt, who knows nothing about sewing, and she loves the jacket and dress, so there is no problem, but I want to do it correctly and practice it before I do another for a client. I did have a little problem with the shaping. What is the correct proceedure? and are there any tips for getting the shaping other than steaming. The fabric I used was a moleskin, underlined/interfaced with muslin. I used batiste as the underlining for the rest of the jacket. The hand was perfect.